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Old Chinook 1 bolt base with rubber u joint question
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Darbonne



Joined: 27 Jan 2012
Posts: 140

PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 10:52 am    Post subject: Old Chinook 1 bolt base with rubber u joint question Reply with quote

I purchased a replacement rubber u joint, but I can't figure out how to get the thing apart. I may have ruined it by trying to force the bottom nut off, now there is what looks like red dried locktite coming out of the space. I stopped trying to loosed the nut because it didn't seem to be loosening easily. I imagine there is a way to disassemble it. Anybody know the trick?

Thanks
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kmf



Joined: 02 Apr 2001
Posts: 326

PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

red locktite can only be removed by heating up the bolt to 500 degrees.

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/t_lkr_red/overview/Loctite-Threadlocker-Red-271.htm

So heat the heat up the head of the bolt, and the loctite will release. Good stuff, but tricky get off.....

KMF
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bred2shred



Joined: 02 May 2000
Posts: 653
Location: Jersey Shore

PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 12:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And when you re-assemble, be absolutely sure you use loctite on both bolts, otherwise you run the risk of having the u-joint separate while sailing. You need to use RED loctite as the blue loctite is not strong enough for this application and could also allow your u-joint to separate.

sm
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Darbonne



Joined: 27 Jan 2012
Posts: 140

PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So looks like I'm on the right track. Heat up the bolt without melting the plastic and undo both the top bolt and bottom nut? It doesn't look like there is any other way. Back to the bench.
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 14157

PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's why, despite lots of shop experience and tools, I decided many years ago to stop even trying to replace just the hourglass. The few bucks saved each year are not worth the added risk of failure, IMO.

Mike \m/
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Darbonne



Joined: 27 Jan 2012
Posts: 140

PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, should have bought a new base. Live and learn. I still may be able to get this done. It's tough going.
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 5815

PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to say that I've been one to replace universals rather than reworking them. To me, the thought of reworking them seemed a bit futile, especially since important components like the plastic cup were often excessively worn and in need of replacement too. If you start adding up the cost of replacing worn components, to include the hassle of taking everything apart and putting it all back together again, it wasn't a tough choice to just buy a fresh new universal.
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johnl



Joined: 05 Jun 1994
Posts: 1170
Location: Hood River OR

PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 5:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

swchandler wrote:
I have to say that I've been one to replace universals rather than reworking them. To me, the thought of reworking them seemed a bit futile, especially since important components like the plastic cup were often excessively worn and in need of replacement too. If you start adding up the cost of replacing worn components, to include the hassle of taking everything apart and putting it all back together again, it wasn't a tough choice to just buy a fresh new universal.


I'm the same way. At the beginning of every season, I replace my downhaul lines (I do one season on them, which is usually over 100 days, no matter what they look like), check my outhaul lines, and check my universals. If any of them look worn, they get replaced. I figure the money is worth it to me not to break down somewhere I really don't want to be....
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 2388

PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 5:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've replaced maybe 3 dozen rubber u joints.
Need a strap wrench using webbing, or a nice big vise to clamp the webbing safety strap without letting go, and squeezing tightly.
Socket and correct drive, of course.
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westender



Joined: 02 Aug 2007
Posts: 624
Location: Portland / Gorge

PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you want to heat the thread locker. Cut the rubber off of the hourglass Boge and apply the heat to the metal pieces inside. I have done it the Zirtab way.
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