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Darbonne
Joined: 27 Jan 2012 Posts: 252 Location: Farmerville, Louisiana
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Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 10:52 am Post subject: Old Chinook 1 bolt base with rubber u joint question |
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I purchased a replacement rubber u joint, but I can't figure out how to get the thing apart. I may have ruined it by trying to force the bottom nut off, now there is what looks like red dried locktite coming out of the space. I stopped trying to loosed the nut because it didn't seem to be loosening easily. I imagine there is a way to disassemble it. Anybody know the trick?
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kmf
Joined: 02 Apr 2001 Posts: 503
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bred2shred
Joined: 02 May 2000 Posts: 989 Location: Jersey Shore
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Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 12:23 pm Post subject: |
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And when you re-assemble, be absolutely sure you use loctite on both bolts, otherwise you run the risk of having the u-joint separate while sailing. You need to use RED loctite as the blue loctite is not strong enough for this application and could also allow your u-joint to separate.
sm |
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Darbonne
Joined: 27 Jan 2012 Posts: 252 Location: Farmerville, Louisiana
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Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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So looks like I'm on the right track. Heat up the bolt without melting the plastic and undo both the top bolt and bottom nut? It doesn't look like there is any other way. Back to the bench. |
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isobars
Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20935
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Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 12:51 pm Post subject: |
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That's why, despite lots of shop experience and tools, I decided many years ago to stop even trying to replace just the hourglass. The few bucks saved each year are not worth the added risk of failure, IMO.
Mike \m/ |
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Darbonne
Joined: 27 Jan 2012 Posts: 252 Location: Farmerville, Louisiana
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Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:16 pm Post subject: |
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Yep, should have bought a new base. Live and learn. I still may be able to get this done. It's tough going. |
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swchandler
Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588
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Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 2:28 pm Post subject: |
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I have to say that I've been one to replace universals rather than reworking them. To me, the thought of reworking them seemed a bit futile, especially since important components like the plastic cup were often excessively worn and in need of replacement too. If you start adding up the cost of replacing worn components, to include the hassle of taking everything apart and putting it all back together again, it wasn't a tough choice to just buy a fresh new universal. |
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johnl
Joined: 05 Jun 1994 Posts: 1330 Location: Hood River OR
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Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 5:06 pm Post subject: |
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swchandler wrote: | I have to say that I've been one to replace universals rather than reworking them. To me, the thought of reworking them seemed a bit futile, especially since important components like the plastic cup were often excessively worn and in need of replacement too. If you start adding up the cost of replacing worn components, to include the hassle of taking everything apart and putting it all back together again, it wasn't a tough choice to just buy a fresh new universal. |
I'm the same way. At the beginning of every season, I replace my downhaul lines (I do one season on them, which is usually over 100 days, no matter what they look like), check my outhaul lines, and check my universals. If any of them look worn, they get replaced. I figure the money is worth it to me not to break down somewhere I really don't want to be.... |
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dllee
Joined: 03 Jul 2009 Posts: 5329 Location: East Bay
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Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 5:53 pm Post subject: |
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I've replaced maybe 3 dozen rubber u joints.
Need a strap wrench using webbing, or a nice big vise to clamp the webbing safety strap without letting go, and squeezing tightly.
Socket and correct drive, of course. |
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westender
Joined: 02 Aug 2007 Posts: 1288 Location: Portland / Gorge
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Posted: Wed Feb 06, 2013 9:14 pm Post subject: |
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If you want to heat the thread locker. Cut the rubber off of the hourglass Boge and apply the heat to the metal pieces inside. I have done it the Zirtab way. |
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