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suggestion for replacing deck pads
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JamesHardy



Joined: 29 Mar 2002
Posts: 113

PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 1:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drop Pasqual at Ocean4Hawaii/Quatro International an e-mail, I have gotten original pads from them in the past. Not super expensive.

http://quatrointernational.com/contact/

Good luck!
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nw30



Joined: 21 Dec 2008
Posts: 4177
Location: The eye of the universe, Cen. Cal. coast

PostPosted: Wed Feb 13, 2013 1:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hilton08 wrote:
If it is cold, I'll use a hair dryer to warm up the adhesive after I peel it but before I stick it. No problems.

BINGO, that's key, even if its up to the high 60's.
The rest of your post is spot on as well.

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ittiandro



Joined: 22 Nov 2009
Posts: 195

PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My board is almost new, (entering the 2nd season) but after a few days of exposure to the sun, ( about 20-25 ° C, if you can call this overheating! ) the heat has badly unglued, torn and shrunken the EVA deck pad.

The store I bought it from is submitting a claim under the manufacturer’s warranty, (Bic) but from what I can see from the warranty statement, damages from heat exposure are expressly excluded. I am waiting for an answer.

I might have to replace the EVA pad and I need help about
1. how to scrape off the old EVA pads on the deck
2. how to remove the old contact cement.
3. Which material? Deck-pads specifically designed for windsurfing boards or nautical use fall under the specialty category and I am sure they are expensive ( perhaps unnecessarily)
I was wondering if exercise mats or other materials can do the job.

To soften the glue and safely remove EVA deck pads, a heat gun has been suggested, as well as sanding for the final glue removal but I am a little weary about both: the heat gun I use for removing old paint is very very hot, even with the minimum heat setting and I wouldn’t want it to melt the hull ( the sun has already partially dented and warped the material in a couple of places, fortunately without further damage) .
As to sanding away the old contact cement, here, too I wouldn’t want to further damage the board.

If I want to sand with my orbital sander, which grit should I use? Any chemicals ( solvents) to remove the old glue?

Any comments or suggestions. ?

Thanks

Ittiandro
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joethewindsufa



Joined: 10 Oct 2010
Posts: 879
Location: Montréal

PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 8:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

maybe like this ??
.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R94eUwG8JPE

there was a video replacing EVA on KONA too, but cannot find it now
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 18326

PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 8:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'd lay new self-stick waffle grid over the old mess unless it has lifted up from the deck. That gives you double-density comfort. If the old pads have lifted, I'd pull 'em up, ignore the residue, and lay new waffle grid over it.

You guys must enjoy peeling petrified Gorilla snot off decks. I don't, so I lay new over old. A quarter inch of new pads hides anything I've ever encountered on the last 50 or 60 boards I've done this with.
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 8408

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 2:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The way that I've cleaned up the contact cement residual after original footpads lifted and delaminated is using a single edged razor blade on edge scraping it all off. It takes some time, but it's an effective process. Afterwards, I use a light grade wet and dry sandpaper (320-400 grit) to clean things up prior to applying new contact cement to the board and on fresh pads. To make sure that things come out clean, you want to contain your clean up and sanding efforts within the perimeter areas under the original pad surfaces.
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 4377
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Using a electric sander , after all the scraping , like said single edge razor blade, 100--150 -- grit , your are covering this up so , it not necessary to be paint prepared smooth.

The glue that's under the pads should be removed as much as possible, so the new product whatever it is , will adhere .
I don't think even lacquer thinner will harm the deck, actually I will try it later today and post comments.

A alternative I have used is, a ready made SURF pad, this will be impossible to fit exact where the old one was, could be bigger or smaller. Ebay has about a zillion of them, the 3M self adhesive ones have stayed for 3plus years.

Trying to adapt some yoga mat or other is not worth the time, posted prior are many places to obtain a section, cut to length , you do the rest, they have a multitude of single, double and groove arrangements.

They will advise what glue to use, or add self backing.

Thiesevdon't fall into the expensive windsurf bits and pieces.

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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 18326

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 3:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I buy those ready-made precut 3M self-stick surf pads by the bagful when I find them heavily discounted. Gives me a wide variety of shapes and colors to work with, and I add their heel ramps to all my boards ... just slap 'em over the existing pads, seal the edges with a fine bead of clear stuff, and I've never had one come loose.
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 4377
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Thu Jun 15, 2017 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used lacquer thinner on this area , the board is a BIC, old, I removed the footstraps inserts to recycle on a project.

The stick on the left shows the pad alone removed, the right side shows pad removed,scraped with single edges razor tool, and thinner to remove the glue remains. After a few hours no damage to the deck, the EPS , is melted some,
YMMV.

The thinner removes the glue easy.

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