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isobars
Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20935
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 1:08 pm Post subject: |
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I'd devote less time to fixing it that than I did to this post. That's all it needs or deserves unless there's damage not evident in the picture or you store or transport the board with that bare spot in the sun. |
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beaglebuddy
Joined: 10 Feb 2012 Posts: 1120
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 5:57 pm Post subject: Re: Outer skin of board scraped off - need to repair? |
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mthompson156 wrote: | I'm assuming the interior structure itself (not damaged) is waterproof, but someone here probably knows better than I do... |
Actually it's like a sponge |
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isobars
Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20935
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 6:05 pm Post subject: |
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The core blank, yes. But all the picture seems to show is a paint chip. If the only water barrier between the sea and the core were the paint, many boards would have sunk by now. |
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xander.arch
Joined: 23 Apr 2009 Posts: 217
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 7:11 pm Post subject: |
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I always thought that modern boards were built around closed cell foam which is supposed to greatly limit the sponge effect of open cell foam. Is this true? In theory, closed cell foam shouldn't absorb much water at all. |
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isobars
Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20935
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 7:23 pm Post subject: |
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Last I heard, the bulk of most boards is still some form of highly, even aggressively, absorbent foam like EPS. That's usually topped by a thin layer of something like divinicell, which is impervious to water. Penetrate the latter and the former takes a big, destructive drink. I see no obvious indication that the divinicell is breached in that photo, but a layer of crazy glue never hurts as long as you can let go of the board when done and wait a few minutes before taking a leak. |
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Sailboarder
Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 656
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Posted: Sun Aug 03, 2014 9:56 pm Post subject: |
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EPS is closed cells. However, the water can migrate in channels around the cells. Once there, according to the knowledgeable Board Lady, water vapor can even migrate in the closed cells too. It's kind of impossible to get rid of the water once it's been there for a while.
In my experience, EPS get heavy from water, but not to the point that it will sink. Apart from my old board, I've also often seen heavy EPS in canoes (stern and bow floatation), but never to the point that the canoe will sink even if full of water. |
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beaglebuddy
Joined: 10 Feb 2012 Posts: 1120
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 1:37 am Post subject: |
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EPS, expanded polystyrene or Styrofoam is little pellets of closed cell foam, the water just goes between the pellets. Unfortunately board manufacturers sometimes claim closed cell foam giving the impression that the foam cannot absorb water.
I had a board that weighed over 50 lbs.
XPS, extruded polystyrene is true closed cell foam for boards but heavier and harder to work with for most people.
And yes that's a paint chip, hardly worth bothering with. I like the super glue idea, haven't tried that. |
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isobars
Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20935
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Posted: Mon Aug 04, 2014 8:04 am Post subject: |
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I use crazy glue primarily in those little bitty cracks that might go deep but aren't worth the effort of going through the "Twelve-Step Program" outlined above. My primary test of whether any crack has penetrated to the EPS is to give the damaged spot a big, deep, high-vacuum kiss. If I can't suck any air, it's probably OK. For checking footstrap screw holes I use a section of eighth-inch tubing, with an O-ring if necessary. If that holds the vacuum after I seal it with my tongue, it's OK. So far I've had only one board need evacuation since the '80s, and I knew that when I bought it. |
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