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Grip tape vs. re-dek vs. non-skid spray?
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Jim.od3



Joined: 25 Aug 2012
Posts: 38

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 11:53 am    Post subject: Grip tape vs. re-dek vs. non-skid spray? Reply with quote

I have tried a couple of brands of non skid spray including the Monster brand that people on this forum like.  Not happy with the results ... not grippy enough for me.  I've been reasonably happy with the roll-on re-dek traction kit you can get from windance.  Now I see windance also sells a non-skid grip tape product.  Wondering if anybody has tried that.  I am guessing it's very grippy, but I wonder if it tends to peel up over time.  

Anybody have any firsthand experience with the grip tape! Or other advice? Thanks.
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 14339

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 12:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.northshoreinc.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=188&idcategory=66



I've used it on scores of boards with 100% satisfaction for over 20 years.
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Jim.od3



Joined: 25 Aug 2012
Posts: 38

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 3:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds good. I'll give it a try. Can I purchase some of the material directly from NSI in hood river, or do I have to go to one of their dealers?
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cgoudie1



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 1286
Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove

PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2014 3:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Go straight to NSI, I do.

-Craig

Jim.od3 wrote:
Sounds good. I'll give it a try. Can I purchase some of the material directly from NSI in hood river, or do I have to go to one of their dealers?
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DelCarpenter



Joined: 06 Nov 2008
Posts: 185
Location: Cedar Falls, IA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 15, 2014 9:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Isobars, do you use it with the waffle, short diamond or long diamond pattern, or doesn't that matter?

I plan to use strips that are 3" wide to put grip on the areas of my longboard where it has worn off.
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 14339

PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 9:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always assumed the waffle grid provides the best traction, cushion, and protection. And to reduce my personal and neighborhood pollution factor and the overall mess of the job, I use the peel'n'stick version. I use it on bare decks, over non-skid, over existing pads, on the nose and forward rails ... have even used single-row strips about 1" X 3 " in front of my front footstraps under my toes for gripping and to prevent jamming my feet in too far. As long as I seal the edges with a tiny bead of Welder's Adhesive (in the red tube; the white-tubed "Professional" version yellows in the sun), the pads never lift.

The stuff's expensive, but its utility and protection are worth it to me. NSI and Dakine also sell pre-cut pads in many styles available at most WS/kite shops, but I use so much of it that I buy it by the sheet (40" X 60", I think).
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philodog



Joined: 28 Apr 2000
Posts: 83

PostPosted: Sat Aug 16, 2014 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For best glue grip heat up both the board and the pad (glue side, before you peel it) with a hair dryer before applying. Don`t over do it though, just enough to get the glue softer than room temp.
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Jim.od3



Joined: 25 Aug 2012
Posts: 38

PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 12:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great advice. Thanks everybody!
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brettn



Joined: 22 Nov 2000
Posts: 73

PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was going to take an old board to the dump, but I gave it to my toddlers to splash around on like a sup. Figuring they didn't need padding and grip back at the stern, I took a paint-scraper tool to the pads. While gently pulling up on the loose padding I scraped between the pad and the board. In 5 minutes I had a pad in perfect condition. 5 minutes after that I had all the padding out from under where the front straps used to be. After some cutting to get it shaped right, I mixed up some epoxy and put the pads on my 2012 Kode that Windance sold me which I think came from Brazil. The board was awesome except for being super slippery anywhere there wasn't an original pad. I put a really thin sheen of epoxy on the pads, put them on the board, and taped the perimeter with blue painter's tape, to hold the pads down at the edges while the epoxy dried. Worked perfectly. It cost nothing, is super grippy, and I got a great bond so far between the board and the pads.
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 14339

PostPosted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Most of us use contact cement, but you have the right idea.
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