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GURGLETROUSERS
Joined: 30 Dec 2009 Posts: 2643
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Posted: Sun Aug 31, 2014 1:17 pm Post subject: |
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The manufacturers official optional extras brochure (for my car) specifically states that their roof racks are designed to carry such things as windsurfing boards, and bikes etc. They show an illustration of my car, with factory approved rack, and a windsurfing board on top.
The fitting of feet and brackets and cross bars must NOT be altered or adapted in any way (legal issues in case of failure) BUT, it is permissable to fasten (i.e. clamps and brackets) bolt on accessories such as bike carrying frames., or, in my case, clamp on side bars from front to back, as extra tie down points for approved loads.
In short, my manufacturers roof rack, authorised dealer fitted precisely according to manufacturers instruction sheet, using the built inbody attachment points, and correctly adjusted, is fit for purpose. I find this so!
I neither know nor care why Subaru would design a roof rack on which they warn you not to carry anything! |
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GURGLETROUSERS
Joined: 30 Dec 2009 Posts: 2643
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Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 2:32 am Post subject: |
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Just a legal footnote to the O.P., should he still be with us.
The minefield nowadays, especially here in the E.U., is car insurance, and type approval. The onus is firmly on the insured to notify their insurance company of ANY (an innocuous little word, but with critical consequences) changes or additions to the insured vehicle. Failure to do so could nullify your insurance in the event of an accident claim, ESPECIALLY if the changes or fittings are not as approved by the manufacturer.
In these days of massively inflated claims for personal injuries (current scam over here is claiming for whip-lash injury) should you be in any way at fault (non approved roof rack and fittings flying off car and causing accident) you would be left high and dry, and facing ruinous compensation claims, and probable court action.
A classic warning case once cited over here was of a teenager who 'fitted' go faster decals down each side of his car, and an aftermarket 'tuned' (i.e. noisy) exhaust system, who after his inevitable accident had his claim refused by the insurance company, and was left to face the consequences.
The days of own design and fitments are over. It's no longer woth the risk, unless you are able to produce an independent engineers report as to fitness for purpose. Nowadays, IU wouldn't even fit a different type of tyre without first clearing it with the makers, and the insurance company. Such is the modern state of things! |
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willysp
Joined: 11 Jun 2013 Posts: 32 Location: Seattle, WA
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Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 12:57 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for all the replies.
Willy |
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dsgrntlxmply
Joined: 16 Jun 2010 Posts: 255
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Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 6:11 pm Post subject: |
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1999 BMW M3, Thule standard square-bar racks with Thule's specific mount for that generation 3-series (the towers clamp into the rain gutter lip).
Speed limit toward my primary sailing site is 55 MPH, two-lane rural roads, and I stick to it except very briefly if necessary to pass. Secondary sailing sites include 65 MPH and 55 MPH stretches of urban freeway, and it is not usually necessary to go much above the speed limit to pass.
I transport one board only, usually in a bag, footstraps toward the car roof, nose forward, fin(s) removed. Gas mileage seems to be slightly better with the board on the rack than with the rack and pads alone.
I use Yakima straps (they have a nicely padded buckle) and replace the straps every season or two.
Strap technique has evolved through a few early mistakes. I have reasonably good confidence in the way that I do it, but acknowledge that someone else might have good reason to wrap the straps differently.
One thing that I advise is to re-check and tighten the straps before driving, especially if you keep the board on overnight. Temperature/humidity/tension can cause the straps to relax and no longer hold as tightly.
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Following up to isobars' post re: California speed law, agreed. The two hilly stretches on my route where passing is most often motivated, are adjacent and up/down/up/down. CHP hangs out at the bottom of one or the other of the two hills, where seldom-used driveways shrouded by vegetation, offer pretty good concealment.
Given the specific conditions and traffic mix (confluence of tourists, touring bicyclists, large towed or unitary RVs, and boat trailers) on this roadway, their presence is an asset to public safety, and not a predatory trap.
Last edited by dsgrntlxmply on Wed Sep 17, 2014 7:26 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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isobars
Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20935
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Posted: Wed Sep 17, 2014 6:24 pm Post subject: |
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dsgrntlxmply wrote: | Speed limit toward my primary sailing site is 55 MPH, two-lane rural roads, and I stick to it except very briefly if necessary to pass. Secondary sailing sites include 65 MPH and 55 MPH stretches of urban freeway, and it is not usually necessary to go much above the speed limit to pass. |
You're wise. States I've lived in most of my life, including my present one, explicitly suspend speed limits for safety's sake when passing on two-lane highways so we can Get 'Er Done and get back in our lane with minimal exposure. But in California? Fugheddaboutit. Here's a Tip from CHIPS:
"These speed limits are absolute and even one mile per hour faster is probable cause for an enforcement stop. [When passing on two-lane highway], the speed you can legally travel to pass the other motorist is 55 miles per hour. Although some officers may use their discretion to allow for faster speeds while passing, the California Vehicle Code does not allow for any variance in the speed limit. If you are passing at 56 miles per hour, you very well may be stopped and cited." |
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Sailboarder
Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 656
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Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 9:51 am Post subject: |
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dsgrntlxmply wrote: |
One thing that I advise is to re-check and tighten the straps before driving, especially if you keep the board on overnight. Temperature/humidity/tension can cause the straps to relax and no longer hold as tightly.
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I strongly advise to check the straps 15 - 30 minutes into the ride. Sometimes the straps are not well centered over the load, and the load manage to shift a bit, loosening the straps. There are maybe other mechanisms, but the fact is that it loosens sometimes. Just retighten and it will normally stay put for a long ride.
This is especially true if you transport 2 canoes on top, but it happened to me with boards too. The canoes are more "slippery" and tend to shift more. |
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rollerrider
Joined: 17 May 2003 Posts: 100
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Posted: Thu Sep 18, 2014 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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Get a mini van. Honda Odyssey gets 25 around town and 30 mpg highway. Most cars with all that stuff on the roof don't do much better. |
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ctuna
Joined: 27 Jun 1995 Posts: 1125 Location: Santa Cruz Ca
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Posted: Fri Sep 19, 2014 12:18 am Post subject: Its a good idea to replace your tie down straps |
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Its a good idea to replace your tie down straps every few
years or when they start to look raggedy.
One thing about carrying stuff on top it starts to cut the gas
mileage down the second board cost about 3 mpgs. on my
Integra.
I give the boards a shake after the first tensioning of the straps.
it simulates going down the road a ways. If I carry two board on
roof at least one is bagged usually both. |
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