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Daggerboard Mod for Phantom 377
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jlooby



Joined: 31 Aug 2005
Posts: 69

PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 3:37 pm    Post subject: Daggerboard Mod for Phantom 377 Reply with quote

i All,
Does anyone have a suggestion for a modification for the daggerboard on a Starboard Phantom 377. Looking for a daggerboard that doesn’t protrude through the deck. I just sail the board recreationally and have never really liked stepping on the sharp edge. I do like having the dagger for the lighter wind days so I would not want to just pull it out or significantly downsize the length.

I guess I could just grind and sand down the current daggerboard to lessen the depth coming through the deck - anyone have experience with this? or
does perhaps someone has found an alternate model that fits my needs better.
Thanks
Joe
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joethewindsufa



Joined: 10 Oct 2010
Posts: 1190
Location: Montréal

PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 4:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey Joe - Joe here Smile
unfortunately i do not have an SB 377 Sad
however, on some other older boards, i have pushed the centre board down
until it is not on the deck, but instead JUST sticking into the water a bit
on my boards this is NOT significant and frees the deck
just an idea
keep sailing those babies folks
looked at new price and saw $5000 + WTF ??
guess I shoulda purchased the one for sale @ 2-rad with the Severne Race sail at around $3600 Embarassed
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wynsurfer



Joined: 24 Aug 2007
Posts: 940

PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 4:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would not modify the daggerboard by grinding down the trailing edge. You might ruin it. Have another custom daggerboard made or bake your own perhaps.

As I recall, my old Fanatic Ultra Dog had the same problem, that the trailing edge protruded through the deck when fully retracted.

My solution was the same as jeothewindsufa's method. Lots cheaper than a new daggerboard too!
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 10588

PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why not fabricate a cover for the deck that covers the fully retracted daggerboard? It could be something soft like a durable fabric, or it could be a laminated fiberglass/epoxy shape, that could be attached to the board. Either of these alternatives could be installed by installing in a few laminated inserts into the board that you could screw into. That way, it's a feature that can be used or removed to suit a range of purposes.

Regarding changing the outline of the daggerboard, that wouldn't be advisable, particularly if you intend to sell the board at a later date.
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joethewindsufa



Joined: 10 Oct 2010
Posts: 1190
Location: Montréal

PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Slinky:

don't u dare call my CAT a dog Very Happy

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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 10588

PostPosted: Tue Nov 24, 2015 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a pretty nice looking stick. To be honest, I thought so at the time, even though I was a short board guy by that time. I love the graphics. Not everyone lives in planing conditions.

Time has proven this board to be a benchmark of sorts from the 90s, and even up until today. To capture this market, a board like this is needed.

Is it a battle between the Kona1, or some more high performance model? If we were to look at the past and the present, should we be building boards using the technology that Europeans used in the 90s versus the Cobra International's technologies today? I think that the former is better, but the design needs to measure up for years. Hey, if you buy a boat, you want it to be the beat anything on the water forever, and it also needs to hold up over the long run.
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jlooby



Joined: 31 Aug 2005
Posts: 69

PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 8:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like the cover idea. I can probably glue velcro strips along the daggerboard opening and attach a cover.
Great idea - thanks!

Joe's idea of leaving the dagger a bit doesn't really work in planing conditions - kills the planing. The phantom with the bat tail and a 9.5 sail planes very early - probably 9-10 knots for me so I don't want to inhibit that.

Joe
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wynsurfer



Joined: 24 Aug 2007
Posts: 940

PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Joe,

Nice ride! Looks exactly like my old board! My shortboard only friends gave it that nickname. None of them ever sail more than 5-10 times a year, so they can laugh all they want!
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wynsurfer



Joined: 24 Aug 2007
Posts: 940

PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 8:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Joe,

Nice ride! Looks exactly like my old board! My shortboard only friends gave it that nickname. None of them ever sail more than 5-10 times a year, so they can laugh all they want!
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boardsurfr



Joined: 23 Aug 2001
Posts: 1266

PostPosted: Wed Nov 25, 2015 5:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You could consider making your own daggerboard. I built a longboard with a daggerboard a few decades back, when the idea of a fully retractable daggerboard was still new. Made my own daggerboard from marine grade plywood. The layers in the plywood made it pretty easy to give it a decent profile. Lasted a few years, I think I had to replace it once. I think I just painted it, but glassing it would probably be a good idea. Drill a hole and put a piece of round plastic tubing or similar in for the pivot point.

I think it's worth the effort. I have a couple of longboards, one with the daggerboard sticking out on top (an Ultra Cat) and one with a fully hidden daggerboard (a Pandera). Unless I'm racing, I usually prefer the Pandera - easier to find a spot for my big feet.
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