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d0uglass
Joined: 28 May 2004 Posts: 1286 Location: Bonita Springs, Florida
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Posted: Sat Dec 30, 2017 10:14 pm Post subject: Mast-sleeve cutouts that make it hard to clamp the boom on |
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One of the things I hate most about rigging is struggling to get the boom clamp on the mast against interference from the tight / scratchy / obstructed margins of the mast sleeve cutout.
The worst mast sleeve + boom head combination that I ever had for rigging is my 2015(?) Aerotech Phantom 6.8 and my old fiberspar boom clamp. The sail has a number of features that make the mast sleeve area tough to work with, the most egregious being the protruding batten end in the middle of the cutout area. (See pic)
I finally broke the clamp struggling to get it on today. Now I have to decide if I want to look for a replacement fiberspar boom clamp of the same fussy type, or just get a new boom with a less fussy clamp.
https://jimbodouglass.blogspot.com/2017/12/minor-rant-about-hard-to-rig-windsurf.html
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mark
Joined: 10 Apr 2000 Posts: 181
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Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 12:23 am Post subject: |
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You may want to consider replacing just the front end clamp on the Fiberspar. Both Streamline and Maul Sails sell their front ends separately. Remove the Fiberspar clamp and measure the diameter of the carbon tube. You should be able the check their websites to see the range of the diameters their fronts will fit. If you only use the boom with RDM masts Streamline has a diameter where you don't need a shim. Might also be easier to get on and off.
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kmf
Joined: 02 Apr 2001 Posts: 503
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Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 12:43 am Post subject: |
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Damn it, I hate booms that require a shim to clamp on to a RDM. What a pain. When I purchased a newer Chinook it was a revelation to find an easy to use front end that doesn't require one of those mast condoms. And they rig on either the SDM or RDM by simply removing a snap in shim.
Now the batten right where the boom goes.....that's another issue.
KMF
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jingebritsen
Joined: 21 Aug 2002 Posts: 3371
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manuel
Joined: 08 Oct 2007 Posts: 1158
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Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 8:21 am Post subject: |
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It can be frustrating. I had the same problem with gaastra sails. There are still some problems when waiting to downhaul fully. The boom might not be high enough even all the way up the pocket to clamp into final position. So when adding downhaul we then need to come back to the boom, raise it again and continue with downhaul.
Aren't most slalom/cambered sails suffering from the same, downhaul a little, clamp boom, add outhaul, pop cambers in, move boom up, add final downhaul, process anyway?
Another issue with super tight luff sleeves is that with cold dry hands it can take pieces of skin away! Even makes sliding the boom up and down difficult. I can see aerodynamics and stability being improved with such a design, maybe other benefits?
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techno900
Joined: 28 Mar 2001 Posts: 4184
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Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 9:55 am Post subject: |
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Different sails rig different ways, but in simple terms:
Downhaul, but leave 15+ cm of slack.
Attach boom but don't clamp it tight, finish downhaul.
Set boom to correct position and clamp tight.
Outhaul.
Once, I clamped the boom tight before I did the downhaul and I ripped the sleeve as it came down over the clamped boom as I pulled the downhaul.
Cambered sails and race sails have specific rigging steps and usually don't follow the order that I posted above.
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U2U2U2
Joined: 06 Jul 2001 Posts: 5467 Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado
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Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 10:19 am Post subject: |
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I agree the boom is a pain to install BUT The photo looks to have a lot or all downhill . I install as per techno900 guide, downhaul only very loose, install the boom at the lowest opening, then continue.
Ref: boon shim . It IS a additional step if required, when I asked AL360 about it, they said that the shim provides additional surface to grip the mast, with less p[ossibility os coming loose/moving.
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isobars
Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20946
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Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 11:09 am Post subject: |
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I have Northwave build my sails with cutouts extended a few inches lower than normal expressly for that reason (the sail designer says it does not affect performance). I have buds who DH their sails completely before installing the boom, but I refuse to work that hard for no reason.
As for the MS boom head ... IMO ... meh. It's a nuisance getting the boom on past the gap in the shim, and people across the lawn are startled when I remove it after sailing because of the loud, sharp CRASH sound from the sail when I jerk the living crap out of the boom to get it off the mast sleeve. When even that fails, I sit down, put both feet on the mast straddling the boom head, grab the boom, double-check my stainless steel groin cup, and jerk with all my might ... really good for one's back. There's no reason for it to be so damned stiff. I think I'll start stowing the boom with something BIG stuffed into its jaws to stretch it out. The video Kevin posted on the process helped, but only to an extent.
My Streamlined boom heads are the old type that creep, and Isthmus says they must be extremely tight to prevent metal failure. The newer version reportedly stops the creep, but I've already spent way over a grand on boom head upgrades only to be disappointed. (For example, you still can't adjust the height of a Streamlined head when out on the water)
Chinook head? Simple as pie.
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nw30
Joined: 21 Dec 2008 Posts: 6485 Location: The eye of the universe, Cen. Cal. coast
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Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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I only use RDMs and I've removed the factory shims out of my booms in preference to using the big rubber shim. That provides a much better spread out contact between the boom and the mast, no pressure points, your masts will love you for using that big rubber shim.
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dllee
Joined: 03 Jul 2009 Posts: 5330 Location: East Bay
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Posted: Sun Dec 31, 2017 3:09 pm Post subject: |
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Attach your boom at the Middle of the opening, then slide it down as needed.
Also, if it bothers you THAT much, slit it free since you won't appreciate the aero advantages anyways.
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