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mtvufg8r
Joined: 17 Oct 2013 Posts: 5
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Posted: Sun May 20, 2018 10:50 am Post subject: Deck Pads Lifting up |
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I have a Bic Techno 160 liter (older model) and the deck pad 'edges' are lifting up, especially where they come to a point in the design. What is the best material to re-secure them the the deck? I sail just about all the time in salt water so not sure if that makes a difference.
Appreciate the answers...
Mike |
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windward1
Joined: 18 Jun 2000 Posts: 1400
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Posted: Sun May 20, 2018 11:36 am Post subject: |
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DAP Weldwood Contact Cement - The Original
Does require the deck and deck pad to be at 65 degrees or above for 24 hours before applying. I have some work that I need to do with it and have been waiting for weeks for it to ever get that warm for 24 hours. |
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thombiz
Joined: 25 Jun 2007 Posts: 799 Location: Corpus Christi
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nw30
Joined: 21 Dec 2008 Posts: 6485 Location: The eye of the universe, Cen. Cal. coast
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Posted: Sun May 20, 2018 1:16 pm Post subject: |
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E6000 in a silver tube, blows the socks off of any other glue for that application, contact cement included. |
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wsurfn1426
Joined: 20 Mar 2004 Posts: 223
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Posted: Sun May 20, 2018 3:23 pm Post subject: |
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E6000? Never heard of it. I have always used Weldwood contact cement. That said, I like that E6000 says it dries clear. I may give it a try. Thanks. |
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U2U2U2
Joined: 06 Jul 2001 Posts: 5467 Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado
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mtvufg8r
Joined: 17 Oct 2013 Posts: 5
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Posted: Mon May 21, 2018 2:26 pm Post subject: |
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windward1 wrote: | DAP Weldwood Contact Cement - The Original
Does require the deck and deck pad to be at 65 degrees or above for 24 hours before applying. I have some work that I need to do with it and have been waiting for weeks for it to ever get that warm for 24 hours. |
Great.. I live in Tampa (Bay Side)... temp is not an issue here |
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mtvufg8r
Joined: 17 Oct 2013 Posts: 5
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Posted: Mon May 21, 2018 2:33 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for all the replies...
I'll take a look at the Barge and E6000.
While I'm at it. This board also has the top and bottom clamshell type construction with a seam along the 'waterline' around the entire shape. It looks ok but has some wear as can be expected. Is there something that can be put or wicked into that 'seam' where the two halves come together to help ensure waterproofing it? I'm not sure how much contact there is between the top and bottom outer shell or whats behind it.
Thanks for helping me out. The board is not heavy at all.. So I assume it's ok and should probably just leave well enough alone... |
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cgoudie1
Joined: 10 Apr 2006 Posts: 2599 Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove
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Posted: Mon May 21, 2018 3:10 pm Post subject: |
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I may be way off base (haven't looked at a BIC in years), but those old
BICs had a thermoplastic skin (covering a primitive epoxy resin and glass based substructure). The skin was there mostly for puncture protection
of the epoxy.
What year board is that?
If you actually want something that will wick inside the seam, you'll need something very low in viscosity (Acrylic Glue comes to mind so maybe a
low viscosity Loctite Cyanoacrylate).
.02
-Craig
p.s. I also am a Barge Cement fan for deck pads
mtvufg8r wrote: | While I'm at it. This board also has the top and bottom clamshell type construction with a seam along the 'waterline' around the entire shape. It looks ok but has some wear as can be expected. Is there something that can be put or wicked into that 'seam' where the two halves come together to help ensure waterproofing it? I'm not sure how much contact there is between the top and bottom outer shell or whats behind it.
Thanks for helping me out. The board is not heavy at all.. So I assume it's ok and should probably just leave well enough alone... |
Last edited by cgoudie1 on Mon May 21, 2018 3:17 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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U2U2U2
Joined: 06 Jul 2001 Posts: 5467 Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado
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