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Is my board still Watertight?
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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 352
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 1:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

U2U2U2 wrote:

Get a can of Monster Traction , spray.


That Monster Traction is not gritty is it? That would not work with the surrounding anit-skid. It needs to match.

U2U2U2 wrote:
...epoxy spray cans , hardware.

Auto will be expensive, may be liquor , not enamel , and probably wont match .


So I need enamel or epoxy paint? Or, is it the same thing? Forgive my ignorance. Embarassed

Liquor in an aerosol? Now we're talkin'! Laughing
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 4812
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lacquer paint, it may interact and cause bubbles. Paint from a hardware store in shaker cans, costly ones are better , but should not be more than $5, suitable for plastics , should be on the label, any Rustoleum .
West Systems have a $20 repair kit.

Monster Traction is good enough for me, spray.
Re Dek,Amazing GOOP, SuperCo Traction are some others.

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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 352
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Committed. Shocked

I've sanded down and cut out the cracked area. Also sanded back the paint to expose the area under a slight suspect dimple. The dimple area seems to be for the most part OK. The area with the slight dimple does not show signs of cracking and it feels solid. There is a slight bit of discoloration maybe. My feeling is that slight dimply area can simply be layered over top as is. Thoughts.

Regarding the main damaged area. As you see, the core beneath the damaged area seams intact. There is no apparent de-lamination and fortunately the crazy glue has note eaten away the foam core.

There is some dampness in the foam still so I'll let it vent a few days before I start to seal it up.

For those in the know, now what? What's the best way to deal with the exposed core and that small hole. Am I OK to directly epoxy and layer up a couple layers of carbon or glass? Or do I need to fill that hole with something first? As you can see by the ruler, its only about 1/2 x 3/4 inches in size and it is not very deep.

The photos of my new board like this makes me sad. However, I know from past board repairs you need to make it worse before you can make it better. Hopefully the making it worse part is done.





Last edited by mamero on Fri May 25, 2018 7:35 pm; edited 1 time in total
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 4812
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 7:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The dept of the area is whats critical. I would probably make it deeper, to erraticate any damage .

Since I have all these materials, fill the hole with pour foam, 8lb version.

This could be overkill to carry out, to purchase this, the below should be fine.
Otherwise layer , s-glass 3.7 oz
or e glass 5.6oz

Carbon 4.8oz.
You will sand away 1 entire layer. So glass, carbon glass.
OR glass glass glass ,in 2 structured layers , at 2 different times.
DO NOT use Kevlar, a pain to work with.

You will need to overlap the hole onto the top deck, difficult to get a even plane.

DO not use a quick or fast setting epoxy, SLO , or tropical to not melt the EPS core, IF possible. Or make even more steps , and be stingy with epoxy.

3M Marine filler as a top coat, paint with primer first, white ,or use paint primer combo. DO not rush. Plan to sand , with wet paper, plan to see some bubbles in the epoxy, 3M fixes this.

MORE THAN 1 way to bake a cake, follow suggestion that sounds best/reasonable. Dont expect the outcome to be cosmetically perfect, soundness is your friend
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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 352
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 8:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

U2U2U2 wrote:

You will sand away 1 entire layer. So glass, carbon glass.
OR glass glass glass ,in 2 structured layers , at 2 different times.

...Or make even more steps , and be stingy with epoxy.

Could you elaborate on what you mean by 2 structural layers at 2 different times? Assuming 3 layers (glass carbon glass) do I do each layer individually; drying and sanding in between? If not, which 2 of the 3 layers would get combined in to one step?

U2U2U2 wrote:
3M Marine filler as a top coat, paint with primer first.

You "paint with primer" after the filler and before the top coat? Correct?

At what stage do I introduce the anti-skid (AKA sugar or salt)? Would I apply the epoxy and anti-skid after the filler, after the primer, or as part of the top coat paint (without the epoxy)? The Board Lady says for best results you should use a thin layer of epoxy for anti-skid.
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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 352
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 8:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Would using a shop vac to suck out the water be a good a bad Idea to accelerate the drying in the damaged area?
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 4812
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mamero wrote:
U2U2U2 wrote:

You will sand away 1 entire layer. So glass, carbon glass.
OR glass glass glass ,in 2 structured layers , at 2 different times.

...Or make even more steps , and be stingy with epoxy.

Could you elaborate on what you mean by 2 structural layers at 2 different times? Assuming 3 layers (glass carbon glass) do I do each layer individually; drying and sanding in between? If not, which 2 of the 3 layers would get combined in to one step?

U2U2U2 wrote:
3M Marine filler as a top coat, paint with primer first.

You "paint with primer" after the filler and before the top coat? Correct?

At what stage do I introduce the anti-skid (AKA sugar or salt)? Would I apply the epoxy and anti-skid after the filler, after the primer, or as part of the top coat paint (without the epoxy)? The Board Lady says for best results you should use a thin layer of epoxy for anti-skid.


1. Either way
2.primer goes on when you are finished with the repair, then paint.
3. Anti skid is on top of or with the paint.

Dont see how epoxy would make anti skid, unless you add something to it.

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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 4812
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 8:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mamero wrote:
Would using a shop vac to suck out the water be a good a bad Idea to accelerate the drying in the damaged area?


Canít see how it would hurt anything , but remove the wet area is a better concept.

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http://www.k4fins.com/fins.html
http://4boards.co.uk/
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 4812
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 8:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pm me your email address , I have issues typing a long reply then lose it on this forum
_________________
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4Boards....May the fours be with you

http://www.k4fins.com/fins.html
http://4boards.co.uk/
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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 352
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

U2U2U2 wrote:
Pm me your email address , I have issues typing a long reply then lose it on this forum


PM sent. Thanks U2U2U2.
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