Tendon or Mechanical Base

*Matt* · Joined: 19 Mar 2008 Posts: 67

I have only used the Chinook 1 Bolt Mechanical mast base. What do you guys like best for mast bases?

isobars · Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20935

I'm cornfused. The mast base plate (one bolt vs two bolt) and the joint (tendon, hourglass, mechanical) are independent.

I prefer the two-bolt base plate because I've had the one-bolt version rip out of the deck box and because it's a PITA to insert and remove a one-bolt base eeeeeeevery time I go sailing. The two-bolt deck plate makes for a plug'n'play operation.

I prefer the mechanical joint because it's bomb proof and does not try to flip the board over when waterstarting. HOWEVER, it's rough on decks, especially light ones. So I use the rubber hourglass joints. Tendons are stronger but also stiffer: they flip the board less than the tendons, and I'm waterstarting all day if I'm having fun. All three joint styles require inspection for pending failures.

Like the rest of this sport, everything is about choices and, often, compromises.

Mike \m/

coachg · Joined: 10 Sep 2000 Posts: 3550

Matt,
I think you will find most people use 2 bolt for the reasons Iso's stated. As for tendon, mechanical or rubber the advantages depend on where and what you sail.

Mechanical are probably the strongest and they make it easy to attach and remove sails from wide boards on the water. However, as Iso's noted they are rather jaring in rough water and thus tough on your board's deck. They also don't have the mobile range of the other two.

Tendon's probably give you the best feel for the board but can also be jaring in rough water. Tendon's are great for flat water blasting because they don't have any looseness to them.

Rubber, hour glass, are great for rough water conditions. They are obviously softer and offer a level of cushion during your ride so they are easier on your board's deck. Rubber also will not last as long as tendon or mechanical.

I prefer mechanical on my formula board, tendon for flat water speed/slalom sailing, and rubber for bump & jump. But that is me.

Coachg

*Matt* · Joined: 19 Mar 2008 Posts: 67

thanks for the replies, they were very helpful.

Matt

PeconicPuffin · Joined: 07 Jun 2004 Posts: 1830

For a rant on two bolt vs one bolt mast feet, see here:

http://www.peconicpuffin.com/the_peconic_puffin/2008/05/two-bolts-or-no.html

lavernegonzales · Joined: 04 Feb 2007 Posts: 0

I agree with CoachG's and Isobar. When it is blowing 30mph on an ebb tide at Sherman Island the mechanical, while not as comfortable, is a lot easier to waterstart. I was sailing with a Chinook tendon and Streamlined mast extension that separated after a crash. It was impossible to reconnect them by myself in the chop. If I would have been using a mechanical joint it would have been a piece of cake. In addition, connecting a Euro pin Chinook tendon with a Streamlined mast extension is not a good idea. The brand new Chinook tendon that I was using works on 4 of my 5 Streamlined mast extensions. The Euro pin Streamlined tendon, however, works on all 5 of my Streamlined mast extensions and HPL,Naish,Chinook and Fiberspar mast extensions.

andymc4610 · Joined: 19 May 2000 Posts: 684

mech bases have the most downside of the three. my buddy put a hole in the deck of his Screamer with one. and the mech can hit a point it will not rotate. i prefer the rubber hour glass style you can see when it's failing and needs to be replaced. tendons people get over confident with....

isobars · Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20935

The snag in the mech joint's rotation is just a little extra resistance at specific points, not an actual blockage (unless yours had a defect). And any mast foot will penetrate a deck WHEN IT'S NOT PLUGGED INTO ITS BASE. Wink

In fact I heard a rumor that one fellow whose base failed offshore deliberately jammed his mast foot into the deck and sailed it back to shore.

The things we do to avoid the landlord!

\m/

swchandler · Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588

I swear by the tendon joint, and I've never had one fail. Still though, one needs to inspect the what might be happening to the tendon, because it can begin to crack over time horizontally across the length of the tendon.

If you use an hourglass rubber type of base, you might want to check out how it distorts while sailing. I saw what was happening and decided that it wasn't the best design. Also, it was the only universal that has failed on me. No big problem though, because the nylon webbing strap kept things together.

I avoid the mechanical joints because there is no buffer to dampen the action between the board and the rig. Also, I'm sure that the punishment occurring affects the integrity and longevity of the components involved in the assembly.

kevinkan · Joined: 07 Jun 2001 Posts: 1661 Location: San Francisco

My favorite is the Streamlined 1-Bolt Tendon. I used the Chinook 2-Bolt system for a long time too, and it works well, but I prefer the twist-on kind. I know people have had issues w/ 1-bolts coming loose in the water. Not all 1-bolt designs are created equal, and the Streamlined 1-bolt is so much easier to get tight (and to loosen) than the Chinook 1-Bolt... and what the deal w/ the Chinook 1-Bolt hourglass uni having the bolt OFF CENTER??? Makes zero sense. If you ever see a 1-Bolt Streamlined universal, you'll notice how big and tall the wings on the base, and this give you the leverage to tighten and untighten the uni reliably. It's damn hard to get the Chinook one tight enough (or the NP one). I've also seen many people whose 2-bolt unis come apart in the water b/c they didn't push the clips in all the way. It's important for everybody to check their gear before they hit the water... 1-bolt or 2-bolt.

I also like the 1-bolt design for the adjustability in the mast track. I tend to ride w/ my mast base pretty far back on my JP Freestyle... some positions that would not be possible w/ the 2-bolt setup. Also, every time I go sail, I have the option to put the uni wherever I want. With the 2-bolt system, it was set it and forget it. Not a terrible thing, but the 1-bolt encourages experimentation and can help you get tuned into your gear.

I've always used tendon joints... I'm used to the feel, and the rubber hourglass joints feels so sloppy to me, and I just can't stand them. Mechanical joints are pretty hard on boards, and so tendons are a happy medium for me.

...and 1-bolts put everything a little lower to the deck of the board.