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d0uglass
Joined: 28 May 2004 Posts: 1286 Location: Bonita Springs, Florida
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Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 8:59 am Post subject: Footstrap plugs - How to make the starter hole? |
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Hi,
I got four single-hole footstrap inserts from the local shop and installed them in my modified Angulo so I can have front footstraps. I think I did a solid job with the routing and glassing, but there's one thing I'm still unsure of:
What size / depth of pre-screw holes should I drill in the inserts? (The inserts don't come with holes- just a little dimple in the center.) Should I line the holes with any kind of putty filler or anything?
http://www.windance.com/Chinook-1%22-Footstrap-Insert-WSWP2275/
Thanks,
James
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U2U2U2
Joined: 06 Jul 2001 Posts: 5467 Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado
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Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:32 am Post subject: |
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Depending on the straps... thickness.. the length could vary some, certainly not longer to go all the way through
Thickness I would go with the same as MOST are.
MY real thought is call or email CHINOOK to get the real deal answer.
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spennie
Joined: 13 Oct 1995 Posts: 975 Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
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Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 11:09 am Post subject: |
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Well, this is right up my alley, been a carpenter for 35 years!
Footstrap screws vary in thickness, usually #10 or #12. You want the drill bit to take out the shaft of the screw, but not the threads (see photo 3). I would use a 1/8" bit for #10 screws first, because you can always go bigger, but not smaller. Make a masking tape "flag" on the drill bit, about 1/8" shallower than the plug (see photo 2), and drill until it touches. Run your drill on a fairly high speed so it doesn't hang up on the plastic and pull itself through and into the core of the board, but not fast enough to melt it.
IMPORTANT! If you find it too hard to turn the screw and want to enlarge the hole, be VERY VERY CAREFUL, enlarging a hole in plastic is a recipe for the above warning about the drill bit catching the plastic and pulling itself into your board! Might be a good idea to make a wooden "stopper" (photo 1).
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d0uglass
Joined: 28 May 2004 Posts: 1286 Location: Bonita Springs, Florida
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spennie
Joined: 13 Oct 1995 Posts: 975 Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
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Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 1:33 pm Post subject: |
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Drill 1" deep, use 1" screws, the foot strap will give you clearance in depth.
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outcast
Joined: 04 May 2004 Posts: 2724
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Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 9:22 pm Post subject: |
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i'm a little nervous about this
First of all you did a Great job on the bottom thing....that was cool...
kind of SeaLion like....I didn't think it would work but hey!
Anyway, why not just sink the plugs and then drill them?. Otherwise you've got to find the hole thru the poxy etc, or it will fill with same. I think you want a layer or two of glass over the top anyway. Ps wrap some cloth on the outside of the plug when you sink them
Cool project...i'm shaping/glassing a longboard for my 8 year old this month
(Recycled funboard)
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MalibuGuru
Joined: 11 Nov 1993 Posts: 9300
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Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2014 10:30 pm Post subject: |
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Spennie, I'm going to have you do my board repairs from now on! Great detail on the plugs.
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spennie
Joined: 13 Oct 1995 Posts: 975 Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
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Posted: Fri Mar 07, 2014 9:16 am Post subject: |
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Here's a related topic: Use the right size screwdriver! Everywhere I go I see people using a #2 screwdriver for a #3 screw, which will work some of the time, but it's a bad policy. #10 screw is a #2 Phillips, while a #12 screw will be a #3. Spend $6-7.00 and treat yourself to a quality #2 & #3 Phillips screwdriver, and a 1/4" slotted, or standard one. Keep them in your fin bag. A proper #3 driver in a #3 screw will rarely slip, making it perfect for footstrap screws, which require a lot of torque.
Home Depot's own brand, "Husky", is surprisingly very good.
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