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Mistral Equipe
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ittiandro



Joined: 22 Nov 2009
Posts: 13

PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 7:31 pm    Post subject: Mistral Equipe Reply with quote

I might buy a 2nd hand Mistral Equipe longboard probably dating back to the nineties. The only thing is I don't know if and how I can fit the new generation mastfoot from my Bic 293 OD to the old masttrack rail of the Mistral Equipe. Can it be done? How?

Thank you for any suggestions

Franco V.

Montreal, Canada
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 2426

PostPosted: Sun Aug 04, 2013 10:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Prolly not.
But, you can buy a single bolt mast foot from Chinook, remove the slug, and bolt it to the smaller hole of the Mistral track car, the white one with two holes.
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 14461

PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 7:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just made a rectangle of 1/4"-thick metal sized to slip into the track (something like an inch X 2"-3") and long enough to spread the load, then drilled and tapped it to accept a mast foot bolt. Today, I'd make it longer to accept a double bolt foot.

Mike \m/
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erniej



Joined: 20 Jun 2012
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The best thing for an Equipe, I've found (I have an Equipe II CHS that I use all the time) is to get a Chinook rubber joint (http://is.gd/wp0FFO with a Euro or US pins), then screw (with Loctite) a standard RS:X male threaded mast track pin (which can be purchased separately from the whole RS:X u-joint) into the base. This is a perfect fit, and works great. Here's my Chinook base (much lower profile than the RS:X stock base to the left): http://is.gd/mvI0Xr .
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konajoe



Joined: 28 Feb 2010
Posts: 178

PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 3:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Won't the first two responses disable the adjustable on the fly mast track?
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shreddbob



Joined: 31 Mar 1987
Posts: 279
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

konajoe wrote:
Won't the first two responses disable the adjustable on the fly mast track?


Yep, these solutions treat the track like any standard Chinook type track, with the function of the affixing nut performed by either the track car (first solution), or the metal plate (second solution). The base of the uni joint must be firmly screwed onto the threaded hole (i.e. "nut") so as not to work loose while sailing, but this obviously prevents the track from being adjustable on the fly.

The big advantage of owning an older style long board, IMO, is the joy of flying upwind with the mast all the way forward and the daggerboard down, and then being able to slide the mast to the rear, on the fly, and retract the dagger, for off the wind planing. The Equipe had all those footstraps to let you go fast with forward and aft track positions, which made it a really fun board.

If a Mistral pin, or same era F2 pin, can't be obtained (separated from an old dried out rubber uni joint--not an easy feat!), I like the idea of the RS-X pin. The RS-X pin in the photo looks just like the old Mistral pin I have. Using a compatible track pin preserves the wonderful on the fly adjustability of the track.
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 2426

PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 7:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you guys were somewhat smart, you might consider adding a couple of fin washers below your universal, so the single bolt Chinook foot doesn't bind on the deck of the Equipe, floating free, so the track can work when the petal was depressed.
That's a big I F ....
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shreddbob



Joined: 31 Mar 1987
Posts: 279
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

zirtaeb wrote:
If you guys were somewhat smart, you might consider adding a couple of fin washers below your universal, so the single bolt Chinook foot doesn't bind on the deck of the Equipe, floating free, so the track can work when the petal was depressed.
That's a big I F ....


Ok, smarty Rolling Eyes

You're idea of the single bolt base screwing into the car is a good one. I used my old Mistral Stinger this way for years (without the on the fly adjustability). But I'm not so sure about elevating the base off the car with washers. Curious--have you successfully done this?

May work, but I'd be wary of the base unscrewing itself. With only the metal washers contacting the car there is not as much friction to prevent unscrewing, as there would be if the whole bottom of the base contacts the car/track/deck. When using the OEM type pin in the sliding clip, it rotates in the car, so unscrewing is not possible. But if you use the threaded hole part of the car then any rotation of the base stud in the hole is not desired. Personally, I'd want as much friction there as possible. Also, assuming stud doesn't unscrew, elevating the base off the car gives up the stability that base to deck contact would've provided...and with no free rotation here, you have to consider the torque that will be presented to the little nylon track car (uphauling especially). Car may break. Just sayin'...


Last edited by shreddbob on Mon Aug 05, 2013 11:27 pm; edited 1 time in total
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 2426

PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy
While the pin might rotate, so should the cup atop the uni joint, right?
While two rotators are better than one, one is better than none.
I used two nylon washers when the red Mistral pin wore down and constantly popped off, even at the tight non release side.
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shreddbob



Joined: 31 Mar 1987
Posts: 279
Location: Massachusetts

PostPosted: Mon Aug 05, 2013 11:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

...You caught me mid edit.

I think you're saying you've used extra washers with the OEM rotating pin? What about with the screw in option?

About only one rotation, I think when the rig is bent over in the water all kinds of temporary binding happens. All it takes is a second of a bound up single rotation, at the cup, and the screw into car connection is subject to possibly enough torque to start it unscrewing. You need enough friction down low to overcome the bound up single rotation up top.
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