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Water in the Core...
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beaglebuddy



Joined: 10 Feb 2012
Posts: 710

PostPosted: Sun Sep 15, 2013 6:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Then there's the method where people have modified an old clothes washer to spin the board around and remove the water thru centrifugal force but that's probably too involved.
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Thurston



Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 88

PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 1:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tips Smile .

The board is an old longboard, a Tyronsea 370. I'm not sure what the core is , and hopefully it's closed cell and I don't have anything to worry about.

I left the board out in the sun for 2 1/2 days, nose down with papertowels rolled up and shoved into the hole. Today it rained so I brought it in before work and didn't have a chance to see how well it worked.

Assuming I've gotten as much water out as I can, how should I seal up the hole?
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 2408

PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 2:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Should be PU foam, poly bondo or MarineTex at WestMarine. Sand well with 80 grit paper, try to glass one layer of cloth with resin over, hotcoat, sand, and finish coat.
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 14322

PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 6:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The first board I ever bought was split wide open clear around the nose ... at least a foot-long gap an inch wide (it was a seam). It was a standard plastic 1980 Windsurfer, so nothing would stick to it. Solution? Pour out a few quarts of water, duct tape it shut, and repeat as necessary.
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Thurston



Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 88

PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 9:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, it is an old plastic board I forgot to mention that. I'd rather do something more permanent that duct tape, but if nothing else I guess it will work. Smile
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spennie



Joined: 13 Oct 1995
Posts: 843
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA

PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marine-Tex will stick to it, I used to fix my O'Brien "Sensation" with it. Fill with spray foam, sand it rough, clean with lacquer thinner. One layer of glass is a good idea too.
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zirtaeb



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 2408

PostPosted: Tue Sep 17, 2013 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hot glue thru gun can also seal soft old poly shells, like we did with cheap kayaks that split seams.
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Thurston



Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 88

PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found the plug! I was thinking of trying to lightly sand the plug and mating surface of the hole, clean, and apply the two part PVC cement (the purple stuff). Would this work to seal the plastic plug to the plastic hole? Early 90s type old longboard.
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spennie



Joined: 13 Oct 1995
Posts: 843
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA

PostPosted: Tue Oct 01, 2013 5:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Maybe. But just maybe, and plumbing pvc glue isn't very flexible, might pop later. Run by your local Home Depot or hardware store (sometimes even the supermarket) and pick up a tube of "Goop". That stuff's amazing, you'll find a bunch of other uses after you fix your board, you won't believe how strong it is!
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Thurston



Joined: 08 Jul 2013
Posts: 88

PostPosted: Thu Oct 03, 2013 8:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just wanted to follow up - I used the PVC cement and it is holding VERY solidly. I'll update if the plug pops back out but I really don't see this happening. The PVC cement (primer + cement) basically welds the plastic together.

Thanks again for all the help guys!
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