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DanWeiss
Joined: 24 Jun 2008 Posts: 2296 Location: Connecticut, USA
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Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 2:13 pm Post subject: |
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Depending, a thin-walled socket might do the trick.
Another thought on effort vs cost: The point of the rebuild is primarily safety, so most people go after the UJ, either tendon or Boge first. If a rubber UJ, stick the thing in a bench clamp and go at the bolt with the proper socket and maybe an extension pipe on the handle for extra torque. If the female insert in the UJ fails, just take a hacksaw to the bolt. The only part you may sacrifice is the plastic washer between the UJ and the cup. That costs all of $3.50 or so and also is a prime candidate for replacement as it is as a sacrificial part to prevent direct wear on the more expensive cup. Yes, the rubber UJ is trashed, but who cares? Wasn't that the target of replacement in the first place? $30 for the Chinook replacement kit (UJ, strap and two washers)
Add new bolts to that. I for one would never reuse a bolt unless it was nearly new. 316 stainless steel bolts corrode when submerged in salt water due to the water's inability to allow the chromium to properly protect the steel. (At least that's my memory of how it works with 316 stainless.) Bolt cylinders also are susceptible to hairline cracks that further weaken it but are often unnoticed. Good money spent on new every time it's removed from the base. _________________ Support Your Sport. Join US Windsurfing!
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westender
Joined: 02 Aug 2007 Posts: 1288 Location: Portland / Gorge
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Posted: Fri Feb 07, 2014 4:38 pm Post subject: |
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My plastic parts wear out and when things get too sloppy I buy a new base.
For the hourglass Boge you use the strap method to take it apart which I've done to fix ones where the bolt came loose.
If your's are so messed up you are trying to rebuild them, it's time to put them in the free box at the swap.
And I might add, if you're taking things apart cold that had red LT, if the fasteners are crap you might twist them off before they come apart. |
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