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gowind
Joined: 06 Jul 2013 Posts: 5
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 8:30 am Post subject: Severne Turbo rotation |
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Hi Guys,
I just bought a brand new Severne Turbo 9.2 (hard to tell if it is 2013 or 14)
I didn't have the chance to go to the water but I was rigging it in my yard
Considering winds from 8 to 14 knots
Downhaul: I an not sure how much to pull. The 504 cm luff measurement goes from the sail top to the tack strap or to the sail pulley? Basically in my older sail (SW NX 9.0 2002) I just downhaul till the upper 3 panels are loose (without counting the one on top of the top batten) and outhaul just a bit to prevent the sail from resting on the boom. I did the same with the Turbo but looks that doesnt want to rotate as easily.
The outhaul should be a 2 finger pull or harder to allow more rotation?
Boom measurement (227) goes from the front of the mast to clew pulley of the boom?
I am going to remove the factory camber spacers to see if it helps with the rotation.
I believe I got a great light wind sail but I will need some help to make it work correctly.
Thanks in advance
Rod |
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AndreiA
Joined: 14 Apr 2013 Posts: 73
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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2014 9:28 pm Post subject: Does the Severne rigging manual help? |
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I'm getting my own Turbo (8.6) in the end of May, and would be really interested about the rigging.
Does the Severne rigging manual (from their web site) help? |
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gowind
Joined: 06 Jul 2013 Posts: 5
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 7:33 am Post subject: |
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Severne online manual is the same that comes with the sail and doesn't say much.
I sent my same question thorough the severne website but no answer. It is not like Ezzy |
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wsurfn1426
Joined: 20 Mar 2004 Posts: 223
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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2014 4:51 pm Post subject: |
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I sail Severne sails, but only no-cams (S1,Blade, and NCX)
I will try to help.
If you go the Severne website, click on Gear, then click on Turbo, then Media. There is a nice rigged (on the ground ) photo...use this and the setting numbers as a guide.
http://www.severnesails.com/sites/default/files/product-galleries/smp_10004-turbo-edit.jpg
If you look at your Severne Cammed Rigging Guide that came with sail, you will see they have adjustable cam spacers to try to accommodate a range of masts.
http://www.severnesails.com/sites/default/files/rigging-guides/Severne%20Cam%20Rigging%20Guide.pdf
Normally, the right mast matters a lot for rotation. Since it is only twin cammed I suspect it will be pretty forgiving.
Finally, if you do not hear back soon from Severne, try positing on the Seabreeze Forum. They frequent it, and a lot more Severne guys can help.
http://www.seabreeze.com.au/forums/Windsurfing/Review/
Hope this was a little help. |
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arden
Joined: 26 Jun 2000 Posts: 28 Location: Wisconsin
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Posted: Wed Apr 30, 2014 11:50 am Post subject: |
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I have a lot of experience with Severne cambers. I mostly race on the Reflex's but also have 6.0 and 7.5 Turbo for free sailing.
I think the original poster is in the correct range with downhaul (2ish panels loose) and outhaul (a bit of tension), so those are probably not the issue. Another thing is to remember that the factory specs are recommendations. Most sails will work well with their factory settings, but use your judgement with this- whatever length luff gets two panels floppy is the right amount, and whatever length boom setting provides light outhaul tension is the correct setting, regardless of how it compares to factory spec.
Next, the cam spacers: removing them will help with rotation.
Biggest thing: the mast diameter and bend. Out of curiosity, what mast is being used? If the diameter of the mast is larger at the cam positions that the recommended Severne mast, then removing the spacers will help. Also, running a shorter mast with a long extension will also put a larger diameter portion of the mast at the cam positions. This isn't to say that the sail won't work with these masts, it just helps explain why the cams might not be rotating and why the spacers might need adjusting.
Batten tension is another thing to check. Make sure the battens for the cams are tightened just to the point that the monofilm is smooth. Also make sure that the lowest batten (non-cam) is tightened quite a bit. This helps form the shape in the foot of the sail and gets rid of a lot of wrinkles. If the lowest batten is tensioned properly then the cammed battens won't require as much tension.
Lastly, get a couple sessions on the sail, or at least rig and derig it a few times to break it in. I have always found that everything is tighter and doesn't work as well the first few times. Once the sail settled in it should be smoother and rig more consistently.
Best of luck!
Arden
http://arden-el11.blogspot.com |
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