Board getting ready to break in half, again!

jingebritsen · Joined: 21 Aug 2002 Posts: 3371

how could you repair/improve it, since it's a defacto $200 board?

extract the dagger slot gasket fill in the cavity with PVC foam

mow 2 inches off the top

redo the rails to match existing deck rails

resurface it with carbon al around.

costs? dunno

let's see, you open a new thread to further damage the reputation of one of the few brands that has the GUTS to offer planing long boards. that's long term thinking ain't it? could you have gathered ideas without smearing the brand all over again? maybe with a few pm's to knowledgeable folks?

BTW stringers that are not really long and have matching bend characteristics always lead to this problem.

mr fink ever full of hate and shortsighted thinking as one would expect? to what end? he is not popular, let alone relevant? sure wish there was some way to block him. cobra talks the brands into choices of structural designs. ultimately, their reputation ought to be reviewed? if mr. fink were to post ever more about crap he knows nothing about, could he achieve an even lousier social status?

sure wish we would all ask our brands to dump cobra.

Sailboarder · Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 656

beaglebuddy · Joined: 10 Feb 2012 Posts: 1120

Well, that escalated quickly....

Sailboarder · Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 656

To go back to you initial question.

Your longboard is designed to flex. It's a compromise between weight, cost and stiffness. Repairing an area will make it stiff, (very stiff if you add stringers) This concentrate the bending at the edge between the repaired and unrepaired zones and will lead to breakage.

My local repairman spends a lot of time explaining and maybe thinking about how he will feather even uncritical repairs to avoid sharp transitions on short boards. A longboard is quite critical in this respect. Since it wasn't explained to you, I suspect that it was not taken into account and that you had a bad repair.

I'm not a repairman myself, but I'm quite uncertain it can be done. The stringers themselves need to be feathered. It's a big repair for sure.

You still have the money to buy a new board. If you are uncertain about the WindSUP, you could go with a Kona One. I would guess they are more solid since they are thicker.

I personnally like to get things repaired. I don't always save money but it provides local jobs. In this case, since it failed once, I would get it repaired for SUP use only, and I would get new board with the refund Exo provided you.

outcast · Joined: 04 May 2004 Posts: 2724

junk it.

right to the dumpster.

nothing wrong with exo's... i've got two pushing 10 years.

I don't mind playing with foam and resin, but the board is toast

Seriously, by the time you get done with all the rework....wouldn't you just rather have fun?

swchandler · Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588

I would not expend a lot on repairs and just ride this board into the ground. You might do some surface laminations to get a bit more life out of the board, but it's likely that any repair isn't going to cure the problem.

The biggest inherent problem that you have is your size and weight. From my experience, guys like yourself pay a much bigger price in equipment failure, especially with respect to boards and booms. While the problem could be rooted in the structural design or production manufacturing, it must be remembered that products are being tailored for the 175 lb. sailor. By being way above that target, you often pay the price.

To overcome your problem, you might want to consider having a guy like Mark Nelson build you a custom WindSUP board based on the Exocet. To make things a bit simpler, you might eliminate the daggerboard feature. That way the extra re-enforcement build in to handle your weight won't ultimately leave you with a board that is too heavy. Undoubtedly, a Nelson built board would cost you an arm and a leg, but it's likely that it will last a long time. When you think about it, an expensive custom longboard could actually save you money over the long haul. If the Nelson lasts 10 years, and regular production boards last only 1-3 years, the custom direction would be better overall.

isobars · Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20935

bred2shred · Joined: 02 May 2000 Posts: 989 Location: Jersey Shore

I wouldn't pay someone else to repair it again, but I would spend $50 on a quart of epoxy resin and a yard or two of carbon and have a go at repairing it myself. The worst that happens is you stink up the garage with some epoxy fumes and learn a thing or two about board repairs.

sm