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dave.rugh
Joined: 17 Aug 2014 Posts: 2
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 12:49 pm Post subject: Bic HiFly Universal Joint broken - how do I fix it? |
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I have a Bic HiFly in storage in Woods Hole, MA; the universal joint has been broken forever and I'd really like to figure out how to fix it because replacement parts are no longer available as far as I can tell, and it seems like a waste to discard the whole setup for lack of one part. So I pulled them off and brought the parts of the joint back home to Californa to see if there is some way to fix them.
Is here a way of connecting the two parts? If necessary, I may be able to 3D print them out in ABS plastic (or preferably just the connector) at a local hackerspace but that will be a lot of work to design them to precise tolerances so if there is an ugly but simple and reliable/usbable hack to get this working that would be awesome.
Two images below; top is an artist's conception of how the joint works; one on the bottom has the two parts of the universal joint on the middle and right; and then a clamp for the mast which I think the boom attaches to.
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norcom
Joined: 16 Jun 2008 Posts: 137
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 3:18 pm Post subject: |
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Seems like you could just epoxy a threaded insert inside the (B) spot and start using modern bases.
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dllee
Joined: 03 Jul 2009 Posts: 5328 Location: East Bay
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2014 4:11 pm Post subject: |
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Rope, with a knot as the stopper on the top piece and the bottom piece.
Not thread, not fishing line, but rope.
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bred2shred
Joined: 02 May 2000 Posts: 989 Location: Jersey Shore
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 11:12 am Post subject: |
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I think norcom is on the right track. You should abandon the old system and try to come up with a way to make the board work with a modern universal. Perhaps a piece of hard wood epoxied into the hole in the board with a threaded insert secured into it so you can thread a single bolt mast base down to the board. I would get away from the old universal system. The plastic parts are probably fried and finding replacement parts will be next to impossible. As a worst case scenario, you could probably even just take a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate, drill and tap it to accept a modern mast base (5/16" thread I believe) and then screw it directly down to the deck using wood screws. Not pretty, but it should work.
sm
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spennie
Joined: 13 Oct 1995 Posts: 975 Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 12:56 pm Post subject: |
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Not 5/16", 8mm.
Agree, change it out, several good ideas here, except screwing a plate to the deck, very hard to make it stay put, undergoes a lot of strain.
_________________ Spennie the Wind Junkie
www.WindJunkie.net |
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swchandler
Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 1:29 pm Post subject: |
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I think that sm is on the right track with bonding a dowel into the existing mounting hole in the board. However, instead of the hardwood/insert concept, I would instead go with a stainless steel or brass dowel with a tapped threaded mounting hole. The weak link is getting a good epoxy bond to the original plastic. Yet, with the lower wind range that one would use an old longboard, I think that the stresses on the bonded interface would be quite minimal.
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dhmark
Joined: 04 Sep 2007 Posts: 376
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 4:35 pm Post subject: |
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I wonder if a nut can go up into the middle part in photo (with red piece) from the bottom, screw into chinook ujoint with either pin or cup on top, then use traditional extensions. Would be super lucky if twist still works to insert the piece into the board. At best still does not seem that secure a connection given the size of the protrusions at the bottom, looks easy to pull out of board. dhmark
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bred2shred
Joined: 02 May 2000 Posts: 989 Location: Jersey Shore
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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spennie wrote: |
several good ideas here, except screwing a plate to the deck. |
If you use the right type of screws and enough of them, it would be plenty strong. Again, it was a last resort type idea... brainstorming. Heck, an old board like that you could just drill completely through the hull and thru-bolt the plate to the board using carriage bolts and acorn nuts. Make sure everything is smooth and friendly to your feet. Squirt the holes with silicone caulk and secure the nuts with loctite - done. Not pretty, but plenty functional for keeping an old long board going and probably a lot more secure than the original system ever was.
sm
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joethewindsufa
Joined: 10 Oct 2010 Posts: 1190 Location: Montréal
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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seems like a metal tube that fits inside the bottom portion of the mast base is needed
yes, the portion with the red sleeve
then a threaded washer to hold from the bottom
another larger threaded washer on top
then ...
the standard nut needs to attach to the top "washer"
welding , epoxy, glue, etc
ideally under the top washer - for resistance
just a matter of finding the right parts
oldie goldies have all thrown out a board when the mast base died on an old water logged board - mine was a BIC Samba
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Sailboarder
Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 656
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2014 9:36 pm Post subject: |
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dhmark wrote: | I wonder if a nut can go up into the middle part in photo (with red piece) from the bottom, screw into chinook ujoint with either pin or cup on top, then use traditional extensions. Would be super lucky if twist still works to insert the piece into the board. At best still does not seem that secure a connection given the size of the protrusions at the bottom, looks easy to pull out of board. dhmark |
These connections were meant to disconnect in case of hard shock. On my Sailboard, the tension can even be adjusted. It's therefore very important to have a leash to make sure you don't loose the rig if it disconnects. (In fact the problem is more loosing the board. There's no way to catch it up if it's pushed by the wind. This could mean a very long swim, or worse...)
Whatever you do to fix your joint, make sure you have a leash between your rig and your board.
BTW, I ended up modifying my similar Sailboard mast base to make it compatible with modern extensions. It was expensive, more than 50$ if I recall well. If I was to redo it, I would instead modify the board to accept standard mast bases. Even if you need to buy a base and extension, it's better to put money in standard parts that can be reused with other boards.
I would use an aluminium rod of the right diameter, and thread it to be able to bolt a standard base in it. Aluminium is soft and inexpensive to machine. With a long threaded area, it will be super solid too.
I would simply glue the rod in the board hole, using a silicone adhesive. Silicone will readily accomodate mismatches in thermal expansions and it resists very well to shocks too.
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