Bic HiFly Universal Joint broken - how do I fix it?

[hilton08]

I would use the Chinook 2-bolt quick release mast foot so that you can leave just the base plate screwed to the board all the time and don't have to worry about your screw holes stripping out over time. Also, then each screw only has to carry half the load.

http://www.chinooksailing.com/products/product_info.php?cPath=2_31_34&products_id=111

http://www.chinooksailing.com/products/product_info.php?cPath=2_31_34&products_id=197

You can replace the machine screws with stainless wood screws for mounting, then just epoxy two plastic footstrap insert plugs into the board wherever you want the mast base to go.

http://www.chinooksailing.com/products/product_info.php?cPath=64&products_id=171

You could also use a hard wood dowel epoxied into the existing hole(s) for (at least) one of the mounts.

[fstarkey]

Looking at the same thing again myself. The push in bases were hard to find by 1990. I've made a couple of new ones by machining the bottom/expansion pin out a piece of delrin bar stock. Only works if you have the other bits intact. You can make the collar. The spreader/lock pin is a different animal. All of the bits were glass-filled polyester. Never had much success replicating the spreader, even with filled nylon. I think updating to a modern base may finally be the way to go. But I'm nervous about removing the old pocket.

Polyethylene just doesn't glue. Doesn't hold screws either. You have to go all the way through, like the original. Anybody out there ever remove the pocket and bottom plate?

Unless you're on a strictly professional 3-D printer, fused ABS will never take the stress involved. Now then, if you have access to a laser sintering powdered metal printer - we may be in business!

Would like to use the Streamlined base & plate, but I suspect the two-bolts are too far apart for the pocket area. That means a one bolt twist-in Bic or Chinook style.

So, we need two machined bits to match the pocket top & bottom parts, only with a bolt hole in the top one... The polyester pocket WILL glue. As somebody here pointed out, could just glue a pin in the pocket. Hmmm....

Whatever I do, I have a couple weeks tops, before Hatteras. Don't really trust the glue. Broken too many parts out there over the years.

OK, I'll quit rambling. If you still find yourself in need, check back. Copies are easily made once the design is good.

[fstarkey]

Looking at the same thing again myself. The push in bases were hard to find by 1990. I've made a couple of new ones by machining the bottom/expansion pin out a piece of delrin bar stock. Only works if you have the other bits intact. You can make the collar. The spreader/lock pin is a different animal. All of the bits were glass-filled polyester. Never had much success replicating the spreader, even with filled nylon. I think updating to a modern base may finally be the way to go. But I'm nervous about removing the old pocket.

Polyethylene just doesn't glue. Doesn't hold screws either. You have to go all the way through, like the original. Anybody out there ever remove the pocket and bottom plate?

Unless you're on a strictly professional 3-D printer, fused ABS will never take the stress involved. Now then, if you have access to a laser sintering powdered metal printer - we may be in business!

Would like to use the Streamlined base & plate, but I suspect the two-bolts are too far apart for the pocket area. That means a one bolt twist-in Bic or Chinook style.

So, we need two machined bits to match the pocket top & bottom parts, only with a bolt hole in the top one... The polyester pocket WILL glue. As somebody here pointed out, could just glue a pin in the pocket. Hmmm....

Whatever I do, I have a couple weeks tops, before Hatteras. Don't really trust the glue. Broken too many parts out there over the years.

OK, I'll quit rambling. If you still find yourself in need, check back. Copies are easily made once the design is good.

[Sailboarder]

To use a modern mast base, you don't need a mast track. You can remove the T-Nut and thread the mast base in place. So you don't need to modify the board a lot. You can glue a threaded rod in the current hole. My earlier suggestion still applies.

[gregnw44]

Yes I agree, lots of reasonable ideas here to construct a way to attach a modern mastbase to an 80's board.

But if the OP or anyone else wants an excellent condition mast-foot, like the one that came in their old board originally (like the pic, at the beginning of this thread) I have two to choose from.
One is a Nautix brand... and one is a Waylor brand.
There are different diameters... you know the plug-rod-tube, that extends down into the board. And of course, you NEED the right one, cause the wrong one won't work.
But both are in excellent condition. Like new, they've been in bags, stored at room temp, out of the light... all this time.
There is no cracks, or fading, or wear spots, that I can see. Both have "expanding plugs" which expand and contract, just like when they're new.
If youre going to use low tension, basic sails, and sail in the local lake... these mastbases will work fine.
Greg

[fstarkey]

After years of stupidity, replicating the push-in, I've taken the ideas here and retrofitted the board for modern hardware. Took a little time to disassemble the Acutek POCKET from the board. Two piece arrangement that screws through from both sides of the board. In the interest of keeping it "original" I turned a piece of delrin bar stock to the profile of the pin (middle bit in photo with orange background.) Reassembled this solid center into the Acutek pocket and board. The flared end of the insert bears the load in the same fashion as the original push-in. A couple of brass screws (crosswise) keep the new pin from rotating when the single bolt mast base is screwed in. This arrangement isn't going to pop out! A good slam may be more than the bottom part of the Acutek pocket will stand. The base bolt is at least an inch into the delrin. I doubt if it will pull out. Ask me in a couple of weeks, after Hatteras.

If anyone else wants to try this method, I have a couple feet of bar stock on hand. Contact me here. $10 for the delrin and $25 for the machine work. DIY? Bar stock available at McMaster Carr industrial supply house.

[fstarkey]

ready for base

[fstarkey]

HiFly with front pocket removed.

[fstarkey]

Of course if you REALLY want to keep it original... Somebody on eBay apparently cleaned out their dad's garage in Colorado. Hi-Fly CS300 complete and looks like new. Board, original 2+2 sail with bag, rig, EVERYTHING. $795

[fstarkey]

Acutek pocket assembly, showing cross screws.