Carve Gybe Help

[rgomez]

https://vimeo.com/119100684

My attempt at carve gybe...Points that I feel are wrong

1. I feel I should be holding the clew first position for longer instead of immediately flipping the rig.

2. Looking at the clew

3. Foot change steps on the center of the board instead of the rail

4. Hand does not move to the boom end making the sail flip harder

What do you guys think?

[adywind]

Your front arm is bent and you pulling the rig over yourself to resist the sail pull puting your weight on the tail. This is how you loose speed.
Get lower the moment you hook out, put your back hand back on the boom and look back to help with the sheeting in. At the same time keep your front arm straighter and pushing down on the boom. The rest is practice.

[rgomez]

Thanks for that ...Did not notice my front arm was bent.

[adywind]

If you hold closer to the harness line you won't have to stretch your back arm too much to be able to sheet in. When you put your back leg on the opposite rail to start carving lean your whole body forward over that leg while keeping the front arm straight pushing down. To help yourself with the body position start looking inside the turn now. Looking back helps with the sheeting in, looking into the turn after that helps with the lean.
If the wind is stronger flip the rig sooner, if it's light delay a bit in a clew-first position.

[cgoudie1]

Hmmm, Ady has a start, but there are are a number of things that will
make your jibe better. Your step to the rail is actually the best part
of this jibe, but as you step, you need to drive forward and into the turn
with your bent knees, that would include straightening out your front
arm. The sail falls behind you because you are flipping way too late, and
you are flipping too late, because your weight is way to far back at the end of the turn. There should be no sail pull to counter, because you
should be moving faster than the wind, nearly downwind when you
flip the sail. Your unhook is also disturbing your plane, if that's natural
for you then after you unhook bear off to a broad reach to regain a good
plane, then drive your knees forward and into the turn with your front
arm extended, about the time your board gets close to downwind the
pull in the sail will go to zero, and you need to throw the back of the
sail around with your back hand.

If you had to try one thing, I would recommend after you step to the rail,
that you drive your knees forward so that they and your torso, are farther
forward than your ankles, and aimed into the turn.

That's my .02, and more advise is undoubtedly coming, let us know
how your next attempts work out.

-Craig

[rgomez]

Wow guys that's really awesome advise... Can't wait to try it on the water soon... I'll post the update video soon

[kmf]

Go buy Dasher's 12 step gybe DVD and watch it 12 times......It will be more help than six pages of this forum......

KMF

[isobars]

Google Mike Fick's Jibe Tips, AKA The Best Jibe Tip I ever Got.
Here's one blogger's comment on it:
srosenstein
Junior Member
"Takes a while to get it ... years in fact. I used a Peter Hart video but I still didn't get it. Then I got a copy of Mike Ficks jibe tips and they worked for me. I'm sure if you ask him nicely he'll email you a copy."

No need. It, in one version or another, is on many websites, including this one. Go to http://www.iwindsurf.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=251938&highlight=outrun+shadow#251938 and scroll down.

Mike \m/

[coachg]

1. Setup
2. Initiation
3. Transition
4. Exit

These are the four basic steps for a jibe. You can break it down further if you want to as Dasher does but it all basically falls into these four categories. While others are focusing on 2,3 & 4, I’ll focus on #1.

If you have a poor setup than the problems in your jibe tend to snowball. It is better for you to concentrate on the setup before you try to fix other problems as the other problems are generally a result of you trying to compensate for a poor setup. You have a very common jibe problem, lack of speed leading to you standing up, stomping on the tail & sheeting out as you initiate your jibe. As you stand up to step to the other side of the board you have lost all leverage on the sail so as you step the sail sheets out with you costing your speed and forcing you to put all your weight into the back foot as you execute a planing jibe into a pivot jibe. All these problems are easily fixed with a proper setup.

1.Slide your back hand further down the boom as you look downwind & behind you to make sure it is clear to jibe. Your front hand could be farther back but I’m more concerned with your back hand right now.
2. Gently, slowly lift your hips to unhook from the harness lines & than immediately hang low. This movement should be so subtle only an instructor like me should be able to notice you have gotten out of your harness.
3. Gently slide your rear foot over to the other side of the board with your rear foot pointed a little more forward-almost parallel to your front foot. Do not stand & stomp!

If you lost any speed while doing these three steps, hook back in and repeat the process. A great way to practice your setup is while sailing on a very long reach you just repeat the above 3 steps until it becomes second nature. If you can’t do the above 3 steps than it is a waste of time for me to try to fix your other jibe problems as they are generally a result of you trying to compensate for a bad setup.

Coachg

[DanWeiss]

Lots of great advise above. I'll post my general thoughts without trying to integrate into the good tips of others. Much will reinforce what was earlier posted.

Do not bend your arms when you unhook. Bending the arms indicates either being underpowered or simply trying to pull the booms closer to your hook to release. Instead, thrust your hips forward toward the boom. This will avoid the board's tail from sinking when you loose sail power causing a further loss of speed.

Jibe in the gusts even if it seems too windy. This works to extend your speed further into your jibe radius, keeps upward lift on the board and stabilizes it, all the while making the sail flip fast and light. Best of all, it helps avoid the dreaded round-up after the flip.

Just as you drive your front foot into the strap by bending your knees, oversheet the sail a bit by reaching back on the booms. This increases your sheeting leverage and adds needed mast base pressure resulting in even more stability. Weight and pressure forward allows you to engage the hips of the board -that point in the rocker line that intersects the outline curve. The board will nearly turn itself.

Andy Brandt teaches that we should imagine a line connecting the boom end to our back foot. We should step forward in concert with the sail flip, following the clew. If you need and image, this is one.

The second image is to think about dropping your hips immediately after the sail flip and try to "kiss the sail." By dropping your hips, you pull down on the booms and therefore add mast base pressure to power up the board.

Another word on jibe entry. Yes, speed and power are your friend but sometimes we sail with very large sails and rather wide boards. In this instance, don't initiate the turn by your step to the leeward rail but by raising the sail's clew. This will move the rig's center of effort forward and start to turn the board downwind. Only once turned should you step across to press down and drive forward into the front strap. On smaller gear, don't lift the clew but bring the entire rig over you and a bit forward momentarily. You probably have the rig over you a bit when looked in and flying, so it's more a thought than a specific action but, again, this will push the board's nose off the wind. Sheeting in will bring both you and the rig upright to take the other conventional steps to a great jibe.