Help me jibe overpowered

[rollerrider]

Yep short boards require a lot of skill in gusty wind. Make sure you don't slow down before the carve. Right after the carve is started depower the sail by layin it down AND back. Then pick it back up with the front hand and it will immediately flip. Find some slalom video. Its always a laydown. Does not have to be a full blown lay down. Just tilt mast a little and back, then let go with back hand and pull it up with front hand. The flip will happen quickly and will handle high wind better. I'll also do this sub planing too, but quickly to promote a quick sail flip in a chicken jibe.

[techno900]

Keep in mind that the "lay down" is mostly the result of carving the board. In other words, the mast is pretty much perpendicular to the board, but since the board is tilted + or - 45 degrees in the carve, the sail is much closer to the water and appears that it has been "laid down". Clearly some lay down the sail more than keeping it perpendicular to the board because it's cool looking, but it's not necessary for a good carving jibe. Sheeting in and keeping the sail/boom in line with center line of the board is more important.

Plus, you can't lay it down unless you have the centrifugal force of the carving board moving rapidly through the water.

[isobars]

[manuel]

[isobars]

From your link:
"Next we have the good ol' 2007 Tabou DaCurve in 85L ... surprise, this board was about to change most of what I thought I knew about shapes... "



Been harping on the comments in that article, and putting my money where my mouth was, for years. It's part of why I own so many boards, virtually ALL narrow (relative to today's standards) wave boards of the same design philosophy as that Tabou.

[DanWeiss]

A few clarifications about why the letdown was created. The first laydown "move" that became well known was initiated by Craig Maisonville, founder and original shaper of Hi-Tech. Craig began to lay the sail down during bottom turns to depower the early wave sails and put a ton of pressure on the leeward rail. He noted that the single or few batten sails of the very early 1980s still had significant depth at the head. Paired with a tight leach, the draft would pull him toward the board's front and made crossing a choppy wave face very difficult. Getting the sail out of the wind became paramount -especially as he gravitated toward driving the bottom turn more off the front foot.

The racing laydown was first widely seen performed by Anders Bringdal in 1990. Anders's boards changed in outline to add more parallel, boxy rails further back with increased flat. At the same time, Gaastra was working with Bruce Peterson for the brand's first loose-leach racing sails. Anders reported that the combination of board changes and the sail's tendency to keep power at the top when bearing away forced him to do the laydown just to manage a turn. He attributed most of the necessity to the boards, not the sails, but noted the sails did have that one issue for a period.

Shortly thereafter and continued through today, the laydown is regularly necessary when sailing only large sails as it gets all that acreage out of the wind and keeps mast foot pressure high and the rail planted when crossing chop during a jibe.

Mike Fick is right, the laydown is a one-two-three move. If you try to behold your own magnificence you tend to round up after the flip. Use the laydown to help you develop great front foot pressure and increase mast base pressure, both of which together will set the rail firmly right at the maximum curve of the board (maximum combined rail and rocker curve).

A hero-laydown jibe in flatwater is a great place to see why you don't want to keep the sail down to long even if you physically are able. Plus the hero jibe is kinda fun if not efficient.

[manuel]

Nice info.

It also helps with clearing the visibility!
Unfortunately in side-on conditions often times it kills too much power and slows down bottom turn speed.

One of the elements mentioned earlier is to get on my toes on both feet. I usually do this at the bottom turn but not at the jibe I don't think (no strap to lean against). This really gets the rail hooked in.

Also, I have noticed that I'm jibing without crouching down so much. Basically the board's angle and rail take care of the chop slicing thanks to its speed.

This one is neat:

[manuel]

It may not be true of all boards but trying to plane out of jibes on my Quad was difficult until... I placed my rear foot farther forward where it touches the front strap pad area.

All of a sudden the board kept its plane way better even at slower speeds and my jibes gained fluidity.

Now I have been jibing with my rear foot back for a long time so it'll take me some adjusting on my stance.

[PeconicPuffin]

[isobars]