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antonputman
Joined: 22 May 2014
Posts: 137
Location: North Shore Italy
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 Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 12:44 pm Post subject: Flikkaboard with hard nose (no more nose jobs?) |
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So I kept on smashing the nose of my 2015 Naish Starship 115L 
The repair guy said once a board is structurally damaged in that area there is not much you can do > just sell it.
I talked with some more buddies and always hear the same story; COBRA cutting corners making boards way too fragile.
I am fed up buying 1.700€ boards almost every season and constantly having to worry about how fragile they are, not being able to try out some new things or fear every little stone on the beach. Than try to sell them and get like 600€.
So time for a change, at least I hope so. I ordered a semi-custom board.
Luka from Flikkaboards send me 2 pictures, I will post some more in a few days when the board arrives. It's a FreeWave 107L from the Core Line but with in- and outboard front foot inserts and my own colors/graphics. Regular construction with Dyneema nose reinforcements and the R4 jumping/planing rocker.
Price 1.950€ shipping included
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Last edited by antonputman on Thu Sep 15, 2016 4:17 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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isobars
Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 20935
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| Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 1:54 pm Post subject: |
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I'm fresh out of sympathy for people who refuse to pad their board noses and masts where the two meet. The combination improves the looks of many boards, and has cut my nose damage by 100% for 25 years on scores of boards despite my masts whacking my noses several times every windy day because I sail and crash with abandon because I don't give a damn BECAUSE OF THE PADS.
Does everyone see the pattern there?
Lessee ... $20 for both pads vs $2,500 for a whole new board ... how does that make sense when a) any bare nose can get damaged and b) I see high-end, big-buck customs every windy day with nose/rail ding repairs.
Not mine, though.
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NOVAAN
Joined: 28 Sep 1994
Posts: 1549
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| Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 3:16 pm Post subject: |
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| The day I get a new board is the day I pad the nose and the stomp area between the straps. $40 and a hour of my time...By the way that board will break if the mast hits it hard enough or a sharp rock is in your future...
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antonputman
Joined: 22 May 2014
Posts: 137
Location: North Shore Italy
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| Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 3:28 pm Post subject: |
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Hey guys I am not pretending they made me a bullet proof board or something, but it WILL be stronger (and lighter) than most of the Cobra boards, I am sure.
Anyway, please post pictures or links to those pads!
Here is the Witchcraft hammertest video, in case you did not see it yet.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c29FzPbR7B4
Flikkaboards make custom HARDCORE DYNEEMA constructions
| Quote: | | Full dyneema deck and bottom, combined with biaxial and unidirectional carbon reinforcements. Can take big jumps and sharp rocks. Stronger than HC carbon. 2 year production and breakage warranty. |
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rexi
Joined: 17 Nov 2009
Posts: 155
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| Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 4:00 pm Post subject: |
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That board looks good! After talking with people who used to break many boards (1+ per season) and then getting a witchcraft board and sailing it for 5 years and still going strong i´m pretty convinced that a board can be quite stronger then cobra boards.
I sailed a few Flikka boards in Tenerife last summer and really liked them. I´m sure you are going to be happy with it. Keep us posted 
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U2U2U2
Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado
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| Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 4:10 pm Post subject: |
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Your title is a little misleading.
Both my Flikka and Witchcraft have been really great boards.
At lot more on boards forum, about both.
Most on here are into the swap meet specials, not all.
_________________
K4 fins
4Boards....May the fours be with you
http://www.k4fins.com/fins.html
http://4boards.co.uk/ |
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wynsurfer
Joined: 24 Aug 2007
Posts: 940
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| Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 6:02 pm Post subject: |
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antonputman,
I hope you enjoy your new board! Sure looks sweet! Bulletproof too. well maybe?
I think you need to find a competent board repair guy or gal because the person who told you that " once a board is structurally damaged in that area, there is not much you can do, sell it."
I beg to differ, either the guy wants to sell you a new board, or he is ignorant. Check this out: http://boardlady.com/disasterpiece.htm
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isobars
Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 20935
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| Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 6:16 pm Post subject: |
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| antonputman wrote: | | Anyway, please post pictures or links to those pads! |
SEARCH iW with key words NSI Hood River and author isobars. They've been discussed many times.
No photos yet, as no one has ever responded to my and others' pleas for instructions on how to post photos.
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bamer
Joined: 16 Nov 2016
Posts: 98
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| Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 6:39 pm Post subject: Re: Flikkaboard with hard nose (no more nose jobs?) |
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| antonputman wrote: |
The repair guy said once a board is structurally damaged in that area there is not much you can do > just sell it.
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The repair guy is full of s--t. You can fix pretty much anything in composites, this is an inherent advantage of the technology. You can run the nose over numerous times with a car, chip away the broken stuff, coat it with some expanding urethane foam, shape it, and wrap it in 5 layers of carbon and it will be bomb proof. Added weight for a complete destruction repair like this should be 7-12 ounces depending on board size. To reinforce the cracked nose you already had would take less material and add less weight.
This also falls in the ~5% of the time where I agree with Isobars. Nose pads like the NSI dual density foam versions are close to 100% effective. I would highly recommend putting one on your Naish as well as your Flikka. Cracked noses generally correlate with a time early in ones shortboarding career. You can always take the 'training wheels' off later if you don't like the look. If you want to know how you can PM me.
Found here: http://www.northshoreinc.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=106&idcategory=142
BTW, I would be skeptical of videos like the hammer smash video you posted: 1. Just because a raw bundle of fibers is stronger does not mean the matrix of fibers and epoxy is stronger. 2. The non Flikka boards he hits all appear to be well anchored and have more inertia than his own sections, he makes sure to stand on the other board sections and hits downward but on his sections he lightly holds and strikes more horizontally, so the physics are being manipulated to some extent. 3. It is common in the windsurfing industry for a section of a warranty to be returned in lieu of the whole board. So the fact that these sections are around in the first place is not a great sign. 4. His boards in the smash video may be one-off constructions not representative of the layup you are getting.
You should be stoked that you are getting a new board. The advice you are getting and your reasoning is just a little questionable.
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bamer
Joined: 16 Nov 2016
Posts: 98
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| Posted: Thu Sep 15, 2016 6:48 pm Post subject: |
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| isobars wrote: |
No photos yet, as no one has ever responded to my and others' pleas for instructions on how to post photos. |
When you hit 'reply' or 'quote' a new link should open with 'post a reply' as the header. Below the message body is a line that says: 'Add an Attachment'. Click on the box below that (and to the right of Filename) that says 'Choose File'. This will open a directory box where you can then select a file from your computer. Once selected the name of the file should be displayed to the right of the 'Choose File' box. Then just click 'submit' as you have done many times before.
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