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Deck soft spot repair with gorilla glue
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isobars



Joined: 12 Dec 1999
Posts: 20935

PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 11:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used stainless steel patches over heel dents beneath the back pads. They are thin and light and contoured, they bridge the dents and beyond so they spread the load onto sound material, they have a little flex so they don't focus ALL the load to the edges of the dent, they soften the ride compared to that of the original hard deck, the dents may reappear some day but the board won't snap and strand me, they required no messy chemicals or expertise beyond contact cement, no one has pronounced the idea as doomed (unlike GG injection), they are invisible beneath the pads, and they seem to work just fine.

Soft decks, however? As has been said, the problem there is not vertical softness but failure of the monocoque structure. Dress to swim or practice Robby's solution to snapped boards: stand on the nose and sail the front half to shore.
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cgoudie1



Joined: 10 Apr 2006
Posts: 2597
Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove

PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 11:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No need to be contrite amigo, you're welcome to a ride anytime. I've
done a bit of wetsuit hitch hiking myself. I'd try it (though I might
glass/epoxy over the soft spots along with the injection). If you don't
jump the thing, it might last forever. Just wear enough rubber to keep
your swim warm. ;*)

-Craig

brettn wrote:
Craig when you see a contrite guy with half a board hitch hiking, please give a lift!
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merriam2



Joined: 25 Oct 2013
Posts: 33

PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 1:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

U2U2U2 wrote:
isobars wrote:
Hey Logger ... have you considered the other approach: buy a replacement Supercross? When I find a board that really shines, I scour the used board sources for backups before mine fails. That allows me to simply discard boards that need significant repairs, which saves money, averts lost shred time, and lets me play hard without having to pussyfoot around a board's "issues". So far I've found from zero to 18 solid backups for each of my favorites, at prices from $10 to $300.


My tire is low on my Mercedes , think I will stockpile a few tires,
Good advise


You don't have a spare tire on your Mercedes?
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brettn



Joined: 22 Nov 2000
Posts: 114

PostPosted: Fri Nov 11, 2016 5:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Forget loops and other tricks. You know you're the man when you can snap 40% of your board off and continue your sesh like nothing happened.
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brettn



Joined: 22 Nov 2000
Posts: 114

PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 1:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That foam really goes. You get a minute of foreplay at best.

The second photo is with the excess foam scraped off.

Now to either simply seal it and go sailing, or sand off all the paint and grit and come back with several layers of glass, like a layer or two of cabon and a layer of S glass, then replacing the grit.



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westender



Joined: 02 Aug 2007
Posts: 1288
Location: Portland / Gorge

PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I vote for a third option which is between the two you listed.

brettn wrote:

Now to either simply seal it and go sailing, or
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ricknamer



Joined: 15 Nov 2016
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 8:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

U2U2U2 wrote:
bred2shred wrote:
Did a similar repair to U2 on a Mistral Syncro several years ago when the foam core between the straps and under the heels essentially disintegrated. I routed out all the bad foam and then filled with high density polyurethane expanding foam (check out uscomposites.com), sanded smooth and covered over with a few layers of glass/epoxy and then re-installed the deck pads with inversion table reviews. The 8LB foam is extremely hard once cured. There is a bit of a weight penalty, but at the back of the board it is virtually imperceptible.

sm


You will probably laugh, this is just sitting in my mess/ storage.

The pour foam is the yellow bits, on the left side white is PVC of the weight normally used when making a full sandwich probably 1 lb maybe a little higher, the right side white is PVC but 2lbs.

The Pour foam is 1.65 oz
1 lb. is 1.45oz
2 lb is 2.90 oz.
due to the difference in sizes the pour foam would approx double.5 to make the same area..so 4.1oz

Very unscientific , but shows to go you.


It really goes to show you how far Gorilla Glue can go - ever use the tape?
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brettn



Joined: 22 Nov 2000
Posts: 114

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Westender, what is the 'tweener option you mentioned?

Seems like something should go over the foam to stop water, but also does not seem like I really need a 1/4 inch of new reinforcement. The board firmed up nicely.
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westender



Joined: 02 Aug 2007
Posts: 1288
Location: Portland / Gorge

PostPosted: Tue Nov 15, 2016 5:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you only have a few holes you can patch them over but with a million holes you're going to have to lay glass over the whole area I would think. Can't see the need for multiple layers or fancy glass??
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brettn



Joined: 22 Nov 2000
Posts: 114

PostPosted: Thu Nov 17, 2016 7:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It's a nice board. I don't want it to snap. I think I'll pick up a rubber sanding wheel for my angle drill so I can sand off all the deck dust and paint. Then do at least a layer of glass, epoxy, and more deck dust.
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