HARNESS LINE LENGTH and SEAT Harnesses

[dllee]

I and several other oldtimers change out mast foot position at least once a week while out in the water.
Smart sailors would sail into a wave protected area, a wind shadow, or near shore.
You just loosen it one and a half turns, so at least 8 threads are still connecting your base to the mast track.
You HAVE to push down on the mast base, to free the friction of the pins and basecup.
It's easily done, sitting on your board, sail in the water out to the side.

[dmilovich]

Hi zirtaeb -

Don't quite get it. Are you disconnecting the extension bottom from the cup before you loosen the mast base? Doesn't sound like it. Just not sure what pushing down on the mast base means, exactly, or why it's necessary to "free the friction of the pins...". If it's still attached to the bottom of the extension, the hourglass is bent over with a bunch of tension (sorta trying to flip the board on its side, eh).

So, do you mean that pushing down on that hourglass area relieves the tension on the foot and allows it to slide while still connected to the rig? Sounds like a cool trick. Always dread trying to adjust that in the water, or even trying to switch rigs with someone in the water by disconnecting at the extension/mast base interface, but this may help that too. In any case, TIA for your explanation.

[isobars]

If I see a long slog coming wth no chance of gusts, I just open my Chinook boom's lever, slide it down a few inches, and close it. Takes all of 15 seconds ... but then my outhaul tension is pretty light compared to racier sails.

[dllee]

Use the palm of your hand to basically straighten out the hourglass to mast base unit, so there is no hourglass pressure upwards on the mast base. Then, the unit just rotates easily, slides easily to a new position on the mast track.
Palm of your hand push's down on the horizontal mast base, so it frees up the uni joint's upward pressure.
Done hundreds of times, while sitting on the board.

[PeconicPuffin]

[dmilovich]

Zirtaeb, thanks will try it!

[GURGLETROUSERS]

One of the advantages with North Silver booms is that the clamp fits either SDM or RDM masts with NO shims or alterations necessary. It takes just seconds out on the water to open the clamp, push the boom either up or down, (they don't stick to the mast), and snap the clamp shut again.

I'm with Chandler. Slackening off mast bases out at sea is just asking for trouble. By Sods Law, if it can go wrong, it possibly will!

[PeconicPuffin]

[GURGLETROUSERS]

One thing I've ALWAYS done Peconic (after loosing a board and rig as they seperated mid jump with the board rapidly blowing out of reach) is to fasten a thin 18 inch long bungy elastic cord to a hole drilled in the mast base, with the other end clipped to the downhaul lines.

you have to take care not to gybe or tack too many times in one direction (winds it up!) but it can be a life saver. I proved that point on having my longboard seperate when I awkwardly slipped off it when way out to sea, and it anchored the board to the seperated rig to prevent it blowing out of reach of my best 'battle speed' swimming capabilities.

Mighty thankful, and NEVER go on the sea now without that safety tie!

[GURGLETROUSERS]

P.S. Should have added-

Most of my boards have a small bar at the front of the mast track. I've permanently tied a short thin rope to each with a plastic clip on the open end. That clips onto the bungy cord to cover all bases. (Mat plate sliding or jumping out of track.)

For those boards which don't have a little bar I've permanently inserted a spare brass slider and bolt with a washer at the very front of the track, and screwed it down over the short rope, after looping it round the bolt.

Where there's a will, as they say!