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Chinook Base Plate Wrong Contour for Board Deck.
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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 352
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2018 4:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder if it would be possible to heat the plate someway and actually bend it slightly? Reshape it a bit.
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kmf



Joined: 02 Apr 2001
Posts: 479

PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2018 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I measure my two bold chinook bases with a straight edge, I see about 1/16 of an inch concave which I can easily flatten out on a flat surface with the palm of my hand.

So what in your view is a "significant gap" when installed on your board with little or no pressure on the mounting screws? How much torque does it take to make it conform to the board. The fin box area is heavily reinforced with pour epoxy....... and the chinook base is relatively small....

KMF
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 9102

PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2018 5:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll ask again, do you have the same non-conformance using a single-bolt twist-on universal?

Regarding the Chinook two-bolt universal, the shim is made from a much more flexible plastic compound, whereas the actual base component is likely made from an injected fiber and plastic compound that is designed to be both stiff and strong. If you have to modify anything, it should be the base component. Sanding the outside 1/3 of each side of the base to develop a slight V at the edges should give you enough relief side-to-side to permit the base to be torqued down to conform properly.

On the board's mast track, if you don't have approximate 1 1/2" flat on each side of centerline (3" dia. overall) to give you a solid bearing, the board may have a manufacturing problem.

Lastly, you have to remember that the aftermarket Chinook two-bolt universal has a significantly larger overall diameter than a single-bolt universal would have (discounting the shim component).
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nw30



Joined: 21 Dec 2008
Posts: 5070
Location: The eye of the universe, Cen. Cal. coast

PostPosted: Sat Feb 17, 2018 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mamero wrote:
nw30 wrote:
Get one of these deck washers, and cut the sides off so that the center part fills the gap, start with small cuts until you have contact along the center as well as the sides of the base onto the deck. This is assuming that the gap is not thinner than the deck washer, otherwise you'll have to use something else to make a shim out of. Also I'd flatten out the sides of the base plate a bit so that they aren't hitting the deck in a small spot.
They have these washers at Windance.


Thanks for the suggestion. The plate actually came with that deck washer. Are you suggesting to add a second and shape that one or use the one it came with?

Either, or.......
I'd probably start with the one that came with it, knowing that it could always be replaced.
Or you could find some other kind of shim material, some kind of plastic would be best, make a shim about as wide as the mast box, put the two bolt holes thru it and place it between the base plate and the deck washer. The deck washer will conform to any deck shape, and that way the pressure between the board and base is spread out evenly. The shim obviously should be as thick as the gap you're trying to fill.



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bred2shred



Joined: 02 May 2000
Posts: 916
Location: Jersey Shore

PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aggressively scuff up the bottom of the base plate with 60 grit sand paper or similar and clean with acetone. Apply mold relaease to the studs on the base. Mask off the deck of the board and the mast track and apply mold release to the masking. Apply West six10 thickened epoxy adhesive to the bottom of the base plate and install the base onto the board snug but not over tight. Squirt more six10 into any voids and wipe off any excess. Let the six10 cure overnight and then remove the base. You should now have a base plate that matches the exact contour of your board.

sm
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 4794
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mamero wrote:
U2U2U2 wrote:
Suggestion #2
Since this is a Starboard , where is it likely others many have encountered this?

Starboard FORUM , could be wrong.


I've contacted the North American Starboard distributor. I'll see what they say.


Distributor, no. Starboard forum !

The Starboard distributor was unable to supply fin screws for the slot box, nor had any suggestion to obtain them. A dealer on Maui came through .

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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 4794
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 10:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The answer might be a STREAMLINED ONE.
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http://www.k4fins.com/fins.html
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ss59



Joined: 10 Nov 2016
Posts: 43

PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 12:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not had this problem with any Futura's, so all a bit odd, but have only ever used single bolt chinook deck plate.
I would advise against a DIY fix, no need to use a two bolt chinook with that board, a one bolt will work fine and will give you the option to experiment with mast foot position without the need for tools
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coachg



Joined: 10 Sep 2000
Posts: 2611

PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alternative

https://www.sunsetsailboards.com/collections/north-sails-universal-joints/products/north-sails-ibase-2-0-series


Coachg
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 9102

PostPosted: Sun Feb 18, 2018 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I like North's universal concept. It solves many problems, and it's done quite well. Actually, it's top flight overall. It's good to know that folks that are still investing in windsurfing and improving the important design and performance details in componentry all the time.
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