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Is my board still Watertight?
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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 380
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 11:04 am    Post subject: Is my board still Watertight? Reply with quote

I did a hard catapult this weekend and did a very minor ding to my new Futura. I think maybe a clip on my harness or something whacked the board.

There is a very tiny crack on the deck about 1/4-1/2 inch wide. It's hard to see unless know where to look for it. I took the board to where I bought it and also contacted the Starboard distributor. They both suggested that it was just cosmetic. Just a little super glue in the crack should be enough.

I pulled out the supper glue last night and proceeded to put some glue in the crack. I used a tooth pick and allowed the glue to drop off the tip and wick its way into the crack.

Here is what concerned me.

1. It seems the glue would not stop seeping in to the crack. Meaning; no matter how many drops of super glue I put on the crack it would eventually work its way in. You would think at some point the crack would be full and the glue would start to pool on the surface. Mind you crazy glue is a lot less viscous than epoxy which may have something to do with it?

2. Halfway in to gluing I released the air vent screw. I thought there might be some kind of pressure difference going on. After doing this it seemed the glue was not being pulled in as much. This concerns me.

So, even though the crack is very very small, is it watertight? Am I good to go or do I need to get more serious. Again, the crack is very small (about the width of the end of a house key). There is NO sponginess on or around the crack. I don't want to open a can of worms if needed on my nice new board.

Thanks in advance!


Last edited by mamero on Tue May 08, 2018 11:39 am; edited 1 time in total
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dllee



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 5328
Location: East Bay

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't be so cheap.
At least sand it and Solarez or Dingstick it.
Better to sand it and add fiberglass and epoxy.
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nw30



Joined: 21 Dec 2008
Posts: 6485
Location: The eye of the universe, Cen. Cal. coast

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the vent open, suck very hard on the crack, if you can't get anything, you're probably good to go.
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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 380
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 11:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A couple photos before any super glue.


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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 380
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 11:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dllee wrote:
Don't be so cheap.
At least sand it and Solarez or Dingstick it.
Better to sand it and add fiberglass and epoxy.


Who said I was being cheap? It's not about being cheap. It's about avoiding an excessive and unsightly repair on a new, expensive board (sailed twice). If more serious work needs to be done then so be it. However, I've repaired boards before with more significant damage. The full-on approach (sand, fiberglass, epoxy, sand, paint) I suspect in this case is EXTREME overkill.
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kmf



Joined: 02 Apr 2001
Posts: 503

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 12:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh for gosh sakes. Sand the spot down to see where the crack ends, add some marine tek or similar epoxy and paint it. This isn't rocket science. Or the end of the world.

And take all of the straps off and weigh the board so you have a reference point to determine how serious any damage is to your board in the future. A cup of water weighs 8 ozs.

One can also purchase a cheap humidity detector at any hardware store and check out the nose of the board to see if it is dry. They are used to check the humidity level of wood in building projects, and will work fine on most boards to see if there is water in any board.

Option three is to put the plug back in, place the board in the sun for a while and see if any water seeps out of the crack. Can't be much in a crack that size.
KMF
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jmcilhiney



Joined: 16 Jul 2009
Posts: 17

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 12:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you leave the board in the sun with the vent closed water should come out of the crack, if any got in.
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 10588

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 12:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What made you choose superglue? It's hardly the correct material to use for repairs. You have to remember that your board was made using epoxy resin, so it's only appropriate to use a catalytic epoxy-based material for any repairs. If you elect not to use a 5 to 1 epoxy like West System, you can easily use Dingstick or Marine-tex to fill the damaged area.

I actually prefer using Dingstick because you can use it on the spot and be back on the water within 20 minutes. However, if you've gotten water into the board, it's best to let things dry out before getting into the repair process. The only real downside to repairs is that it is often tough to color match the paint covering the repair.
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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 380
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 1:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

swchandler wrote:
What made you choose superglue? It's hardly the correct material to use for repairs.


I agree. I only used superglue because both the dealer and the distributor said so. Seemed like too simple to be true though. I have two part epoxy from another board repair. I may need to go that route.
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mamero



Joined: 25 Aug 2013
Posts: 380
Location: Vancouver, Canada

PostPosted: Tue May 08, 2018 2:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

nw30 wrote:
With the vent open, suck very hard on the crack, if you can't get anything, you're probably good to go.


Worth a try.
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