Is my board still Watertight?

swchandler · Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588

One thing I definitely wouldn't have done is laminate over the masking tape. It's not the end of the world by any means, but it complicates the process of sanding and the tape removal. Also, for future repairs using laminations, you get the best results by sizing the different layers of glass/carbon cloth starting from smaller and graduating to larger. This helps provide for a flatter repair, because it allows you to more easily feather and fair the repaired area during sanding. Often the top layer of glass ends up being sacrificed during the sanding process.

Lastly, before getting into the painting stage, it is a good idea to use 3M Acryl-Marine Putty - White (P/N 051144-05962) to fill any pinholes and any remaining weave of the cloth. It's quick to use (a non-catalytic material that drys in 25-30 minutes), sands beautifully, and it's super easy to fair-out.

grantmac017 · Joined: 04 Aug 2016 Posts: 946

Flood coat over the putty or just paint? I've been doing my fairing with thickened epoxy but that is a slow, difficult process.

swchandler · Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588

Adding an epoxy coat over laminations isn't necessary. You have to remember that epoxy by itself doesn't have much strength without the structural properties that woven cloth provides in the mix.

3M's marine putty is essentially a fairing compound designed to fill any pinholes, leftover weave in the fiberglass, and facilitate the fairing-out of the repair to the board's original surface. It's not designed to be a filler like thickened epoxy material.

The 3M putty was recommended to me by Mike Zajicek in the early 90s, and I have been using it since then in all of my repairs without any downside. It's an outstanding product.

So in answer to your question, after the putty is applied and faired out, just paint over it.

mamero · Joined: 25 Aug 2013 Posts: 380 Location: Vancouver, Canada

Thanks for the suggestions folks. I'm going to sand down the layers later today. I'll post another pick.

U2U2U2 · Posted: Wed May 30, 2018 6:42 pm Post subject:

Page 6 , I recommended the 3M putty. Great stuff for final layer to finish.

mamero · Joined: 25 Aug 2013 Posts: 380 Location: Vancouver, Canada

Here we are. The 5.6 oz carbon and 6.0 oz glass layers are now sanded and feathered to match the surrounding area. It may not look like it but it feels nice and smooth and feels correctly contoured; something that can really only be determined by touching it by hand. No pinholes that I can see and the marginal flex (or sponginess) seems to be gone.

Is it really necessary to do another layer of 4oz glass and or putty? Or, can I simply prime and paint? I'm not trying to cut corners however, I'm not sure if additional layers are going to add much. I'm concerned if I add another layer of 4 oz glass and/or putty the level is going to be too high. If the additional layer(s) get added they are just going to get sanded back anyway (or even removed) in order to be flush with the contour of the surrounding area.

U2U2U2 · Posted: Thu May 31, 2018 7:15 am Post subject:

Prime n paint

TheAdmiral · Joined: 27 Dec 2009 Posts: 43

Hi, Bought a deck repaired exocet . Love wider boards (have an Isonic 145/88, Rocket 128/84 wide/ RRD 101/65 wide) Actual repair a mystery to me. I assume the deck was soft and removed the deck to reinforce.THey Installed it with brown epoxy.After My first outing board perculated water out of 3 spots. 1 inch crack between foot straps and 2 small pin holes at back corners. I ground out brown epoxy and used WEST Epoxy to repair and fill in both pin holes.I have repaired many boards and West epoxy is the best. Weighed board with straps and is under 20 Lbs so some probable water intrusion but this board sails great. Early planning,very,very turny.Speed ok, but not real fast. Even put a 9.5 on it for kicks off my Isonic 145 and it planed and even gybed it in 13 mph wind with small gusts. I will finish the repair and reinforce with carbon fiber, then put a pad over the sins. Any further advice appreciated. I weigh 165 Lbs so hopefully the deck will hold up. Mark

swchandler · Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588

mamero, at this stage in your repair I wouldn't add another layer of glass. While you could move on with paint like U2 suggested, I would still recommend using the 3M putty just to be sure that there are no avenues for water to enter the repaired area. It fairs-out and sands incredibly thin and smooth, so there would be no build-up of material left affecting the flatness of the repair.

Yet, I'm guessing that you want to complete the repair and get back on the water as soon as possible, and I realize that acquiring the 3M putty might to tough to locate quickly. Given that the repair is quite small, and you appear to have done a good job with the laminations and sanding, you could move on to the painting stages. If you do, just make sure to closely scrutinize the area in your initial painting stage to see if there are any irregularities visible in the paint or primer. Believe me, if you have any irregularities, they will be very visible once painted.

In the long run though, I would definitely buy the 3M putty for the future.

U2U2U2 · Posted: Thu May 31, 2018 3:01 pm Post subject:

The 3M is a great FINISH product, its a big tube, my first lasted near 10years.

THe primer will fill in some small holes, not irregularities