Firmer harness lines?

rtz · Joined: 31 Oct 2010 Posts: 296 Location: Oklahoma City

I just measured both my booms and they are 7" apart on both:

kevinkan · Joined: 07 Jun 2001 Posts: 1661 Location: San Francisco

looks like you are bending your lines when you store them in your van with the sails on top. try twisting the mounts before you put your booms away

grantmac017 · Joined: 04 Aug 2016 Posts: 946

If they end up under the boom after you've set them outward than you've got a stance issue. Likely your waist harness problems come from the same source.

My lines (and back) did the same thing until I fixed my stance and lost some weight.

nw30 · Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2019 5:54 pm Post subject:

KK is correct, now we can see why your harness lines have a curve in them.
It's not the fault of the lines, or the spread of them, but how you store them.

isobars · Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20935

For several well-defined reasons, I want my lines to hang straight down -- as determined by gravity, not rig angle or line distortion (as is common with Chinook lines) -- from the boom. i.e., when I tilt my rig to one side, I want the line to point to the center of the earth, not towards my rail. Today's lines are manufactured not to do that. I have thus not liked any line I've bought in the last decade or so.

It's a PREFERENCE.

My solution? Ye Olde Swap Meets and large boxes of factory-packaged compliant lines from > 20 years ago for $5 a pop for just what I wanted. A lifetime supply cost me maybe $50.

cgoudie1 · Posted: Mon Apr 08, 2019 9:31 pm Post subject:

I have had lines do that, and I think it was because I stored the boom with the lines held inward (toward the center of the boom ) through the uphaul
rope. I gave up my uphaul rope
(on any sail smaller than a 6.7) about 20 years ago, and I haven't seen that since, but, you could mitigate the issue, by storing the lines pulled out away from the boom, and then twisted over the top of the boom and connected together, while stored. That would put a serious bend in the plastic the
other direction. It might take a set that way. I doubt closer together will
make much difference. Or there's always new lines. As a stop gap
you could reverse one of the 2 line connection points (I'd do the front one)
That'd put sort of an S curve in the plastic.

.01

-Craig

p.s. I use 28" lines, and I agree with everybody, it's personal and
it has to do with body geometry (and the harness type you like)

p.p.s I like my waist harness, and I've ridden everything from a speed seat
to a chest harness (check out pictures from the mid 80s for those).

akrausz · Joined: 19 Sep 2008 Posts: 158 Location: FL

I have Chinooks and I store them by rotating them a little so that the harness lines reach towards the opposite boom arm as far as possible, and I run the downhaul through the harness lines and tie to outhaul line.

isobars · Joined: 12 Dec 1999 Posts: 20935

I simply rotate my harness line attachments 90 degrees when storing the booms (but Chinooks still warp for me).

Sandman1221 · Joined: 02 Oct 2016 Posts: 7

I always rotate lines to the inside of boom to store, and rotate back out when rigging. I know the Chinook adjustable lines drooped, so once I figured out the length I needed, went to fixed Dakine lines.

rtz · Joined: 31 Oct 2010 Posts: 296 Location: Oklahoma City

I got the curved/warped part worked out. But I still don't like how floppy the lines are where they connect to the boom.

Are there any on the market that either use thicker or stiffer webbing or have some sort of reinforcement material in the area of the end of the line and where it wraps around the boom?