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Tuttle Box Repair
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Alena



Joined: 04 Jul 2000
Posts: 43

PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2019 7:11 am    Post subject: Tuttle Box Repair Reply with quote

Hello
This is a question about repairing my most precious Starboard Serenity.
This is an amazing long board that goes at winds when nothing else does.
Anyway it has a 70 cm fin and this fin found a mountain of submerged rocks and hit it at slow speed. The fin flipped out about 5 mm.
On inspecting the damage the back wall of the tuttle fin box is pushed in about 2-3 mm. The outside out line is not affected fortunately.
Does anybody have any experience with this? Can one fill the gap with epoxy and keep going or would it be too weak?
And do you know of a good repair shop in Eastern Mass , Cape Cod, South NH?
Thank You very much
Alena
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dllee



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 5328
Location: East Bay

PostPosted: Sun Oct 13, 2019 2:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Happens quite often.
Fixed by standing board up so gravity is helping, and filling depression with epoxy and chopped fiberglass mix around thick clam chowder viscosity. Sand flush with retail file and or sandpaper wrapped around a pencil.
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Alena



Joined: 04 Jul 2000
Posts: 43

PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2019 7:06 am    Post subject: Fin box repair Reply with quote

Thanks a lot. That is good news.
Do you think it is OK to use West Marine Filler to make it thicker or is fiberglass better?
Also to prevent dripping of the epoxy on the hull do you think packing tape will do it? Or duct tape?
Thanks
Alena



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dllee



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 5328
Location: East Bay

PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2019 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scissors chopped glass is stronger.
Packing tape works fine.
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dllee



Joined: 03 Jul 2009
Posts: 5328
Location: East Bay

PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2019 11:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Scissors chopped glass is stronger.
Packing tape works fine.
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Alena



Joined: 04 Jul 2000
Posts: 43

PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2019 5:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am also going to inject the Epoxy in the cracks like real surgery.
No pain no gain.
Thanks a lot.
Alena



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mark



Joined: 10 Apr 2000
Posts: 181

PostPosted: Mon Oct 14, 2019 7:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use the 406 not the 410. The 410 is used only for fairing not for structural applications. The 404 filler would even be better. There should be a West System filler guide at your local store or you can get more information at their web site.

Before starting you may want to put the fin back in the board and wiggle it to make sure the box is still intact. You may have done sufficient damage where you may want to replace the whole fin box. You don’t want to suck water into your board due to an internal crack you can’t see.
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bred2shred



Joined: 02 May 2000
Posts: 989
Location: Jersey Shore

PostPosted: Tue Oct 15, 2019 7:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mark wrote:

Before starting you may want to put the fin back in the board and wiggle it to make sure the box is still intact. You may have done sufficient damage where you may want to replace the whole fin box. You don’t want to suck water into your board due to an internal crack you can’t see.


Agreed. Screw the fin into the box, flip the board over, and have another person hold the tail of the board firmly while you flex the fin in both directions. Look/feel/listen for any movement of the fin or fin box. If the fin box structure is compromised, you’re going to need to use more than just epoxy and filler to repair.

sm
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wynsurfer



Joined: 24 Aug 2007
Posts: 940

PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2019 5:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hopefully the box won't need replacing. Eva the boardlady has lots of good information: https://boardlady.com/tuttlebox.htm
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gschuel1



Joined: 04 Apr 2005
Posts: 56
Location: Narragansett, RI

PostPosted: Wed Oct 16, 2019 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Use West Systems epoxy, not fiberglass as that can dissolve an epoxy board. Fill the fin box mostly with high strength filler, then top off with low strength so you can fair it easily and smoothly. Use either fast or slow hardener depending on the temperature you are doing the repair in and how much of a rush you are in. I always use the slow hardener as I am in no hurry and can wait a day or two for each application. I don't understand the comment about standing the board up as that will make the filler run out all over the board. Fair the final coat with coarse sandpaper like 100 grit followed by at least 400 grit. Use a sanding block not you fingers. If you are a perfectionist finish with 600 grit. Unless you have structural damage to the fin box this is an easy repair. No need to find a repair shop. If there is structural damage the fin box need to be routed out. But that would be the subject of another post.
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