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Fix ding on Starboard formula wood
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raffar



Joined: 23 Dec 2007
Posts: 47

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2014 10:49 pm    Post subject: Fix ding on Starboard formula wood Reply with quote

What's the best fix for a ding on a Starboard wood surface area?

It looks like my son let the boom head hit the board somewhere in the back of the board between the back straps on the "wooded" area.

The ding is is the size of a dime. There was some water penetration but I think after our typical low humidity winter it should be dry by now (removed the vent screw to help drying out).

RAF.
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LUCARO



Joined: 07 Dec 1997
Posts: 592

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My recommendations

If old board: sand a little and then use ding stick and watch for salt residue around repair prior to your next session. This can indicate a leaky repair. Guess this only works if you sail in the Ocean Smile

If newer board: you may want to grind down and rebuild it back up a la

http://www.boardlady.com/repairbasics.htm

But the wood veneer complicates things a bit.

http://www.boardlady.com/acid.htm

If it is the deck you can get away without a vacuum pump and just use some weights to sandwich it down.
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techno900



Joined: 28 Mar 2001
Posts: 3911

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 7:34 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have fixed two holes in my wood formula board. One where a knot in the uphaul got pinched between the mast and deck - hole about quarter size. Another from my harness hook, also about quarter size.

I cut out circular areas just larger than the damage and pulled out all damaged material. Some of the foam which was broken up came out with the wood. I used epoxy and filler (powder included in the West Marine repair package), plus two layers glass and some cut up glass until the hole was filled. Then one final layer of glass flush on the deck overlapping the hole covered with epoxy.

It looks fine, with a very slightly raised area (1-2 mm) and about 1" square where the top layer of glass is over the holes, but the edges are smooth so there isn't anything to catch on. I didn't bother to paint, sand or try to match the wood color on the repair, but the repairs are solid.
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Wed Mar 19, 2014 11:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

a dime size hole.......

I would sand, fill with SGlass //epoxy. or Epoxy with micro balloons. Any of the ding stick type repairs are not are permanent, but I have seen them forever. SolarEz-- Marine Tex is good and easy sand. You could use a epoxy from a hardware store like the Gorilla , which is better than most, not so good as a marine specific one, 2 strange anyway.

Most of these are clear or white, if I wanted pretty I would use a permanent marker over to try and blend in.

Tape a plastic piece, like a sandwich baggy, over the hole, let it sit in the sun, hour or so, if condensation appears inside between the plastic and board , its got water ......... if you want to check that FIRST.

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techno900



Joined: 28 Mar 2001
Posts: 3911

PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 8:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I should also mention that on my iSonic 111, I had two hairline stress fractures through the finish and wood (bubbles/air escaping in hot sun) on the bottom of the board. Both were about an inch long in different areas and almost imperceptible. I did the same repair as the formula board (cut out damaged areas with a box cutter), but didn't lay on the last layer of glass, so the top of the filled holes were all epoxy. I sanded to get it flush and painted it white with spray appliance enamel. A little shiny where the new paint is, but looks fine.

The only real negative was that the last of the epoxy that I put in the holes had small bubbles left from mixing, so the final surface is pock marked with teeny tiny holes. Not perfect, but no big deal.

One thing about the Starboards, the wood and other layers? are really thin. The box cutter goes through almost like cardboard. It's easy to cut through. A little scary when you see how little material is really between you and the foam.
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

the white powder you mention before is a additive of West Systems epoxy, a filler, probably 404 Hi Density or 406 Colloidal silica, neither effect the strength of the epoxy. some others I have are rust color.

The bubbles are strange, I get those as well, if its a skim coat, then never, filling a hole where a larger amount is poured in, yes. You could try a additional layer on top to fill , and the glass usually takes care of those as well.

The bubble hole can be filled, if desired with a 3M Marine putty.

I think the bubbles come from the mix, air temp , and curing process, and may not be avoided at times, if cosmetically ok , then fine.

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DanWeiss



Joined: 24 Jun 2008
Posts: 2290
Location: Connecticut, USA

PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 11:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, bubbles under the final finish coat mean one of two things. Either moisture was on the board when painted, or water has intruded into the board and wicked to the primer surface. Primer is not waterproof, so this happen quite a bit with older boards. The water will expand when heated and form a bubble. Sanding these off will often fail to show any liquid, but leaving them exposed will allow water to directly contact the primer, and the primer will suck it up like a sponge. More bubbles will be bound to occur.

Sanding off is fine, but don't sail the thing until resprayed.

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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2014 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dan I think the bubbles are in the epoxy, not painted area.
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techno900



Joined: 28 Mar 2001
Posts: 3911

PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 7:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, bubbles in the epoxy. I probably mixed too vigorously introducing them accidentally. So, when mixing, go easy. I could see them when I poured on the epoxy, but there were so small that there was nothing I could do. When painting, I tried to fill in those on the surface, but with little success. We are talking pin point size, so it's only cosmetic.
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MalibuGuru



Joined: 11 Nov 1993
Posts: 8793

PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2014 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have a question for the experts here.

My board had a small crack that I didn't notice so it took on water. I left the vent closed, and put the board out in the sun for about 5 hours. It was way over 100 degrees (board temp, too hot to touch, Maui!), and after about 3 hours the water seemed gone because the sizzling had stopped. I gave it another 2 hours in extreme heat with crack on low point. (no more sizzle)

Was I careful enough? I patched it later that evening, and took the vent plug out. Now it will sit in storage for about a month before I take it back on the water. Question is, does it sound like I gave it enough time to dry out? Will the 1 month with vent open remove possible small amount of water?

Delamination can happen if you patch a board too soon. Any opinions?
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