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Fix ding on Starboard formula wood
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U2U2U2



Joined: 06 Jul 2001
Posts: 5467
Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado

PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Having done a few home repairs, so i dont do this professionally, I would consider myself an advanced student, not expert.


Keep a eye on your repair, if it becomes soft, then start over. The length of time for the water to dissipate is going to be in direct proportion to the amount taken in, and the exit point. for NOW I WOULD COVER THE REPAIR WITH A PIECE OF CLEAR PLASTIC , SANDWICH BAGGIE OR NOTEBOOK SHEET PROTECTOR, TAPE TO SEAL . REMOVE VENT , LET IT SIT IN THE SUN, CHECK IN 30' THEN 1 HOUR, APPROX.....IF IT HAS WATER YET IT WILL FORM CONDENSATION ON THE INSIDE BETWEEN THE BOARD AND PLASTIC, CLEARLY VISIBLE. at this point H20 could be trapped and not show, and damage to the internals.

Cant really answer your question, no certain anyone can.

On the repair, I would have REMOVED the vent, stuff a paper towel in there, to help with water evaporation, until none was observed then the plastic test from above prior to any repair. If the water continues, repeat attempts to drain/dissipate , and further steps may then be necessary , like surgery .

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MalibuGuru



Joined: 11 Nov 1993
Posts: 8793

PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The plastic over the vent or repair site is a great idea. I'll definitely do that before I use the board.

I'm assuming that if I leave the board in a warm storage box with the vent open, it should dry out in a month if any water was left.

Thanks for the advice.
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swchandler



Joined: 08 Nov 1993
Posts: 10038

PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 2:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

When working with epoxy and polyester resins, it's virtually impossible to avoid pinholes. It's a byproduct of the catalytic process and some degree of air entrapment and its escape. After lamination, the fill and finish coats processes can fill the majority of the pinholes, but you still will end up with new ones.

As U2U2U2 has mentioned, 3M marine putty can be used to eliminate all pinholes, and it's an excellent fairing material that cures quickly and sands super easy. However, it's white in color, and it's not a finish material, so it must be painted in the end.

If you are working with clear resin finishes, after very sanding stage, it's super important to remove dust from any and all pinholes before adding a new coat. Otherwise, you'll end up with a finish that's peppered with white dots.
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MalibuGuru



Joined: 11 Nov 1993
Posts: 8793

PostPosted: Sat Mar 22, 2014 2:32 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for elaborating guys. I always wondered why it seemed there were pin holes in my repairs. I'll use the epoxy stick to finish it off before painting.
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DanWeiss



Joined: 24 Jun 2008
Posts: 2290
Location: Connecticut, USA

PostPosted: Mon Mar 31, 2014 9:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, epoxy boards nearly always show pin-holes. Not to the core, but more like tiny craters. Said a very famous shaper, "Dan, that's what primer's for!" Not only does it help the paint adhere but fills most of the pin holes for a smooth finish.
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