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andreafuentes99
Joined: 12 Jan 2016 Posts: 27
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 1:40 pm Post subject: Repairing my nose! |
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Board had a poorly done repair on the nose where previous owner just put a bunch of putty (not even sanded). I probably banged the nose with the mast once or twice and it started falling apart. (picture 1)
Sanded off the putty and added fiberglass and resin. (picture 2)
Now I am ready to do the gel coat. Do you guys recommend wet sanding between gel coats or dry sanding? I saw some guys on you tube using auto spray paint, any thoughts on this?
Thanks for any advice as usual!
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swchandler
Joined: 08 Nov 1993 Posts: 10588
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 2:05 pm Post subject: |
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It would have been better if you removed all the damaged areas entirely before beginning the repair, but since you've glassed over everything now, you'll just have to move on. One thing that you do want to do is use a fairing compound over the glassed area to fill the fiberglass weave and to ensure that you don't have any pinholes that can draw in any water. After sanding and fairing, you definitely want to paint over the repair, since epoxy can be adversely affected by the sun. To keep things simple, you can pick up some Krylon Glossy White spray paint at the hardware store. It easy does the job, and the color match is reasonably good.
In the future, I would recommend checking out The Boardlady's website. It is an excellent source for virtually any type of board repair, and Eva has broken down the various step by step processes, with great photos, to help with the details.
www.boardlady.com
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andreafuentes99
Joined: 12 Jan 2016 Posts: 27
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 2:44 pm Post subject: Thanks |
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thanks SWchandler, that site is amazing!
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cgoudie1
Joined: 10 Apr 2006 Posts: 2597 Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 3:38 pm Post subject: |
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Oh, nasty! You are using Epoxy Resin, yes? I only ask, because Polyester
resin will eat your EPS core and you don't want that. I usually dry sand
board repairs, but you need to be sure the dust gets cleaned off so some
water is involved.
Otherwise, what Steve said. I use Appliance Epoxy White spray paint if I
have a warm environment and 24 hours, because I think it's more
flexible than Krylon, but Krylon will do the job, and in about 20 Minutes vs
24 Hours, so if you need to get back out on the water tomorrow (and
who doesn't), Krylon.
-Craig
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andreafuentes99
Joined: 12 Jan 2016 Posts: 27
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U2U2U2
Joined: 06 Jul 2001 Posts: 5467 Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 3:50 pm Post subject: |
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I suggest either carbon or another layer or both, when you start sanding you will lose at least some. Go wider on repair area. Sand so it's smooth or flush, wet paper will take scratches out so it's ready to paint.
The work here will make a nicer finished product.
The paint Steve recommended is good for this, avail at Walmart. Don't purchase the cheapest can of spray, better coverage with a dollar more spent.
Some appliance paint white is a close match to some of the whites.
You could also do a color , and have a distinctive look.
I use a primer first, primer is primer, it does come in white, grey or even black.
Most auto sprays are lacquer, it have been know to blister the underling paint,depending on what it is. Stay away from it.
None of this is worth much if it's not repaired to some degree of correct .
It will probably crack again unless the repair is extensive. Use of a mast/ boom protector will help.
_________________ K4 fins
4Boards....May the fours be with you
http://www.k4fins.com/fins.html
http://4boards.co.uk/ |
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cgoudie1
Joined: 10 Apr 2006 Posts: 2597 Location: Killer Sturgeon Cove
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 4:01 pm Post subject: Re: Yes fiberglass repair kit |
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That is unfortunately Polyester resin. You might have gotten lucky and not invaded your core with it, but it's done now anyway. If your core was invaded, you'll have voids in there where the EPS core melted away, that
will make the nose quite susceptible to damage. If you're done with the
repair except for the sanding, painting and sanding. Then I'd just push
on the nose around the repair with my thumbs and see if it deflects much
(It shouldn't, but if it does), you can either use the Board Lady's
instructions to repair and fill core voids, or you can get some more EPOXY
resin and glass and try and build the structure up externally. I
wouldn't use that polyester resin again for any other repairs on that board.
Wishing you good luck.
-Craig
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scargo
Joined: 19 May 2007 Posts: 394
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 5:18 pm Post subject: |
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You're getting some good advise. But I have to respectfully disagree with those who've told you to keep moving forward. It looks like you could fairly easily grind off your errant repair attempt and start fresh. It will be a good learning experience, and will help you sleep better at night knowing it won't fail any time soon.
I've plugged this product a couple of times, but I'd get the West Systems 105k repair kit and go from there. Comes with easy-to-use packets, filling and fairing fillers, and enough cloth for several jobs.
http://www.amazon.com/West-System-105K-Fiberglass-Repair/dp/B015ZQAACG
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U2U2U2
Joined: 06 Jul 2001 Posts: 5467 Location: Shipsterns Bluff, Tasmania. Colorado
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2016 7:03 pm Post subject: |
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We replied , close in time to each other.
I think Craig is correct, you used the wrong, resin, it's the stuff that melts EPS.
SURF BOARDS use a different Core, and the resin you used works on them or epoxy. Not on the common windsurf board material.
My plan would be see if the EPS, which is the white , sort of flaky , balls, like a styrofoam cooler is made of, was burned, it would melt a hole into the inner core, melt being what to look for.
You may need to remove enough of YOUR repair to see.
And I think take it from there. Too many options to offer more now.
_________________ K4 fins
4Boards....May the fours be with you
http://www.k4fins.com/fins.html
http://4boards.co.uk/ |
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andreafuentes99
Joined: 12 Jan 2016 Posts: 27
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Posted: Wed Mar 30, 2016 8:42 am Post subject: boo hoo |
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OK I will work on it some more. It's really hard, doesn't give into any pressure. Before it was holes apparently where he just put gobs of putty on it. So I don't know. Thanks for the advice everybody, sob sob. LOL
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